How to Fix a Washer Fluid Leak on a BMW E90 E91 E92 E93

Описание: how to replace the washer pump and grommet on a BMW e90. This is a 2010 335D, however this does apply to other models as well as the E91, E92, and E93. If you find you do have a washer fluid leak on the passenger side of your car just behind the front tire, this is either caused from a cracked washer pump which I had or a faulty washer pump grommet. #bmw #bmwe90 #oemtools

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-8mm, 10mm, 17mm sockets
-ratchet
-jack and jack stand
-new washer pump
-new washer pump grommet
-small screwdriver

Procedure:
Next is removing the wheel, this requires a 17 mm socket.

Using a small screwdriver, push the pins out for the clips along the fender edge. Unfortunately there is a high chance of losing the pins, they typically fall behind the fender and can be somewhat hard to find at times. So it may be a good idea to keep some extra clips of the style on hand.

Next using an 8 mm socket, remove the various fasteners inside the fender well. There will be a couple along the top and then some behind the strut.

Now under the car, there will be some here as well. They will also be one 10 mm plastic nut that needs to be removed. I did find one of the clips Were broke due to rust and I was unable to remove that fastener so I will have to maneuver the fender liner around this.

Remove the T30 Torx fastener just along the edge of the rocker that needs to be removed. 

There is also another 10mm plastic nut hidden behind this cover once it’s removed. 

Remove that plastic cover behind the strut assembly, again this uses 8 mm fasteners.

Finally is pulling out. This does take a bit of maneuvering in order to pop it out of its position. There’s no need to remove it completely but just enough were you able to have enough room to gain access to the washer tank.

Remove the fender light by pushing it towards the back of the car. Then pry the front side out.

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bolt holding in the washer fluid tank. You may also need to unclip a couple of lines here just to give you a bit more room to work. 

I found to get a little more access I had to remove the one fastener for the front part of the fender liner. Again this is an 8 mm. Then push that washer fluid tank forward, it is a tight fit and it does take some patience. This doesn’t need to be removed completely.

Now the washer pump is exposed, I used a heat to warm it up considering I am working in the cold. I just want to prevent the chance of having any cracked plastic.

Pull the rubber hose off the washer pump.

Then tilt the top of the pump out and gently pry it out of its position.

Pushing on the tank on the electric connector, gently pry it from the washer pump, and remove the washer pump completely.

Use a small pride tool to pop the Gromit out of the tank. This also has a mesh screen to protect the pump from picking up any dirt.

Install the electro connector on the new washer pump.

Then install the new rubber grommet with the mesh screen onto the bottom of the pump.

Push the pump into the tank and the shirt is fully seated.

Now clip the rubber supply hose onto the washer pump and then twist the pump back into place. Make sure that the line is also clipped into place. 

Reinstall the washer tank back behind the fender. This does take a bit of patience to get it properly back in place.

Reinstall that 10 mm fastener for the washer fluid tank.

Once everything is placed then is clipping that fender liner back into place. Again this does take a little bit of fiddling to get it fully seated correctly.

After that is reinstalling the clips and fasteners. Make sure everything is put back into place. I do find keeping some extra fasteners on hand is a good idea as the heads of the fasteners can rust quite badly not allowing you to use a socket.

After that is cleaning the hub faces on the rotor and on the back of the wheel with a wire brush.

Finally install the wheel. 

The torque specifications for the lug studs are 88 ft lbs or 119 NM. 

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