Better Buzz, FA on Joshua’s Diner Rock

Описание: When I was getting closer to sending Tower Rangers, I knew I’d soon be looking g for a new project and this one kinda fell into my lap. Even though I’ve looked up at these features for over five years now, I finally decided it was time to rap and and see what the deal was.

Many years ago, maybe 2003, a massive fire raged through here and caused severe damage to some of these towers. It’s possible that’s the reason this face is climbable. Those lighter sections of the rock are where huge flakes popped off the wall due to extreme heat. Some were completely off and some had to be pulled off revealing a couple holds down low.

I was absolutely blown away that it was coming together. I worked this line on TR for a few days and things changed a bit by holds ripping off and leaving nothing or revealing a better hold. By the third day, it was time to bolt. Everything felt beyond solid. No hollow sounds when knocking on the holds. Feet weren’t going anywhere. It was perfect… and better yet… climbable!! The big question mark over those few sessions was that dyno. I figured it would be possible if the undercling feature was positive enough and there was a foot to jump from. Although both do exist…. It’s by a very slim margin. This line is a beauty.

This tower has been named Joshua’s Diner so I found it fitting to name it Better Buzz since our buddy Buzz gave me a catch the day I sent. That dyno is a bit tricky for the climber AND the belayer. If not enough slack is paid out to the climber, their weight will be taken up by the rope during the swing. This ABSOLUTELY nullifies the send since it prevents you from swinging off. And that’s kinda the hardest part.

Big thanks for the many catches:

Joshua H
Buzz
Joe G
Mike R