Malcolm 8X Generation II Overview - On the Ground to on the Target
Автор: Hi-Lux Optics
Загружено: 2021-06-15
Просмотров: 9302
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We're back at the range with the Malcolm 8X 2nd generation scope. This features all the upgrades and changes that competitors have been requesting - and comes outfitted with the Vintage Sniper Competition Mounts right out of the gate. Today we get one of the Gen II scopes mounted on a 1903, zero the scope at 100 yards, then hit targets out to 650.
Stay tuned for all the details!
00:00 Introduction
Mounted atop the Springfield 1903a1 today is the Malcolm 8X Gen II. This is the second generation of the Malcolm 8X Unertl style scope, typically found in CMP competitions. A few changes from the prior version:
Competition mounts standard
Laser welded rail
Improved threading
Hardened screws
Improved glass coatings
New finish
To change the parallax, you'll need to remove the sunshade. The sunshade also acts as the lock ring for the parallax.
When adjusting the parallax for farther distances, a gap will form between the end of the objective lens housing and the end of the parallax adjustment threads. Simply push the objective element into the housing with your hand until it stops to set the parallax.
For closer distances, the objective lens housing will be pushed outward by the focus ring. You can still press on the objective lens housing to double check for proper seating.
02:35 Boresighting
Step one in our zeroing process is boresighting. Remove the bolt and aim the rifle at some discernable point on your target. The target is currently set at 25 yards at this step in our zeroing.
Make sure the rifle is fastened down properly so that you can make adjustments without moving your point of view.
Then simply alternate your view between the rifle's barrel and the scope. Adjust the scope until it's pointed at the same place as the rifle's barrel. This will get you on paper when you're starting to zero.
04:13 25 Yard Zero
It's time to get the initial zero at 25 yards. When we're zeroing at 25 yards (for a 100 yard zero), the goal is to hit the target some distance away from the point of aim. In this case, aiming at the center of the target, the bullet should make a hole about 1.5 inches low. If this ballistic path carries outward as we expect, the bullet should be intersecting with the point of aim when it reaches 100 yards.
Even if you dial your point of impact to be the same as your point of aim, an initial zero at 25 yards makes getting on paper much easier at farther distances.
08:49 100 Yard Zero
This is the real zero we're aiming for (pun intended). Once the rifle and scope are pointing at the same spot at 100 yards, it's time to re-index the turret.
Re-indexing the turret involves loosening the top cap screw of the elevation turret. This allows you to reposition the turret's exterior so that the "0" points at the indicator mark. This makes keeping track of your clicks considerably easier, as the numbers go up from 0 exactly how you'd expect numbers to behave.
Our 25 yard zero got the rifle within an inch of where it needed to be. One last adjustment before it's time to take the rifle out to distance.
This is also a good distance to check your parallax setting. Make sure your reticle and scope are focused perfectly for the most precise zero you can get!
11:54 Reaching Out
Time to ring steel at 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, and 650 yards. No holdovers, just dialing directly to the distance and placing the crosshairs on the center of the target.
We're lucky there wasn't a terrible amount of wind today!
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