Hungabee Mountain (Part 1 The Approach)

Описание: Mount Hungabee
August 16–17, 2025
Route: West Ridge III 5.4


We made it a two-day mission. Day 1 was all about the approach, hiking all the way to our bivy site. Day 2, summit day, and then straight back out.

This series of videos documents our climb of Hungabee Mountain, located in the Lake O’Hara area; from the approach to the false summit, across the famous knife ridge, all the way to the top and back down.

I don’t write guidebooks. I make videos, that’s my style 😄. Got plenty of footage for this one, so it’s going to be an interesting watch. Once again, I teamed up with my good friend Ryan someone I fully trust for these kinds of missions.

It was actually my first time in the Lake O’Hara area. Lucky for me, Ryan handled all the logistics; one quick phone call and everything was booked. Hungabee was his last 11er in the area, and my first.

The approach was straightforward: we caught the 4 p.m. bus, hiked about four hours to our bivy, spent the night, and hit the route early next morning. The weather turned out excellent, and the route was in surprisingly good condition. The rock was solid and dry up to the false summit, where we found some rime ice and lingering snow patches.

We carried a full alpine kit. rope, trad rack, axe, crampons, but ended up soloing the entire route. The final black band was icy, but somehow we managed without tools (though most would find an axe and crampons
handy there).

At the summit, we hung around for about half an hour, hoping the clouds would clear for some blue sky views, but no luck. We did five rappels on the way down and still made it in time for the 4 p.m. bus back.



Disclaimer

The content in this video is for informational and entertainment purposes only. Climbing mountains involves inherent risks and dangers. Please conduct your own thorough research, evaluate your skill level and physical condition, and consult with experienced climbers or professionals before attempting any climb. The information shared is based on my personal experience and perspective and is not intended as advice or a recommendation for others to follow. If you choose to climb this mountain after watching my video, you do so at your own risk.