"Rocky and Marie," 5.10 -- Lake Okanagan Deep Water Solo
Автор: Respect the Risk
Загружено: 2020-08-01
Просмотров: 406
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This is a video introduction to one of the very few "Deep Water Solos" on a small cliff on Lake Okanagan in Vernon, British Columbia. While there are many crags along Lake Okanagan, most feature shallow water, and/or rocks below and are NOT SAFE for soloing. Use extreme caution. Check the depth of water on any crag above the water BEFORE climbing. Many of the rock faces over the water in this area are VERY SHALLOW, and thus are DANGEROUS. If you happen to get on the wrong rock face in this area, the water could be too shallow for Deep Water Soloing. Even on the same cliff face in this area, water depths vary hugely. A few meters left or right often make the difference between safe and DANGEROUS. Every climber must double and triple check water depth by swimming. The water is "black" so it is not possible to determine depth from above. Personal "Local Knowledge" is essential. "Rocky and Marie" 5.10 is named after some old graffiti painted on the cliff possibly in the early 90's. Access to this cliff is from the lake only, as the land access is on the private property of a gated vacation resort. Please be respectful of the private property above and behind the cliff, and only access this cliff from the lake by small boat, paddle board or by swimming. This also makes it a bit more of an adventure! The cliff is also used by cliff jumpers so please be aware, courteous, and cautious regarding other "risk sport" users of this cliff. Motor boats are also moored in the region, so use caution, make yourself visible if swimming.
From the Dog Beach below the developed rock climbing cliff at Ellison Provincial Park -- the cliffs are as follows from north to south:
Golden Age Cliff Waterline Traverse, 5.8 350 meters along the shore line.
Fools Gold Traverse, 80 meters, mostly unclimbed, climbing developed up to 5.7 so far.
Jaws of Paradise Traverse, 80 meters : Remains to be freed, climbing so far up to 5.11.
Rocky and Marie Traverse: 60 meters, 5.11
Boston Slab Traverse, 40 meters, 5.10
Ragged Edge Traverse, 300 meters, 5.11
The cliffs south of Ellison Provincial Park are on private property so please approach from the water and respect the owners land.
All of that said, it is a fun route -- I find it quite hard, and intimidating every time! A nearby 300 meter traverse was also completed by Sean Wilson and I last year,
I am not sure who made the first ascent of this route, however, it was introduced to me by my friend and climbing partner Sean Wilson. He stunned and impressed me by climbing this in his bare feet. Wow -- it is particularly impressive as the feet on the traverse portion are quite thin.
Special thanks to Joseph De Maio, my 17 year old son, for taking the video footage from the boat.
From the lake, the cliff is about 300 meters to climber's right (south) of Ellison Provincial Park. (which also has its own cliffs and rock climbing). Route descriptions and grades for Ellison Provincial Park are available here http://justanotheroutdoorpage.blogspo...
"The Ragged Edge," 5.11. It starts about 200 meters right of this route and goes around the prominent point. Route notes and topo for that can be found here as published online by Gripped https://gripped.com/news/ragged-edge-...
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