Via Francigena: Viterbo to Vetralla, A Lonely Burro and a Tufa Tunnel

Описание: “A marzo taglia e pota, se non vuoi la botte vuota.” (In March cut and prune, or you'll not have a good harvest.)

Leaving Viterbo for Vetralla brought us to miles of roads flanked on both sides by 15-foot-high walls of volcanic tufa. Cool and enjoyable. A warning of high winds again was in the forecast.

We traversed bumpy roads, rutted paths, and white gravel lanes. Just as diverse were the ways farmers tended their olive orchards. Some had plowed under the trees so rich dark soil showed, others had mowed the grass short around them, and still others had let flowers and weeds spring up tall. One commonality was all had trimmed the middle section of the trees out and made piles for burning or as we later learned for use on Palm Sunday.

Lunch was at the crest of a windswept hill by the side of a country road. Probably the most windy spot we could have chosen. In true pattern for us, a short time later a picnic table appeared. Oh well. Walking along, we partook of “Timothy hay” present at roadside (you gently pull it out of its sheath and chew on it). Many abandoned homes and ruins here as well.

Agriculture surrounded us on this leg. Fields full to bursting! A dozen men harvesting purple cabbage replied to our shout of “Che Dio sia con voi” (May God be with you) with “E anche con voi” (And also with you), accompanied by broad gleaming smiles that shone white against their dark skin. One item of note from the encounter was that the whole crew carried gleaming machetes.

It was a kick to see some white goats — billies in full beard, kids and momma. A family affair. Speaking of animals, as we entered town, a sweet lonely burro caught our attention by braying quite loudly and then by coming to the edge of his fence to see us. John quickly made friends.

There was surprisingly a nifty open air “museum” tucked in the small natural tufa caves at the side of the road leading to Vetralla. It showcased implements of earlier eras.

The next morning we visited two churches: Sts. Andrea and Francesco and St. Anthony Abbot.

#pilgrimage #viafrancigena #catholic #camino