Namibia Untamed 7 Rivers Expedition Ep3 [Himba][4x4][Van Zyl's Pass][Okongwati][Kunene River]

Описание: The three nights at Kunene river lodge, an oasis of large indigenous ficus trees, incredible birdlife, blue swimming pool, marauding monkeys and monitor lizards is just the cool respite needed in the 42 degrees celsius. The track from Kunene river lodge to Epupa Fall is a mere 161 km's but considering the gravel road and knowing how often we stop to photograph we know this is a full days trek.

Epupa, meaning "falling waters" in Herero, is where the Kunene river, one of Namibia's five perennial rivers, plummets down into a 40 metre deep gorge.  We have only ever seen it, when the river has been in flood and it is nothing short of dramatic, an absolute spectacle framed by Makalani palms, Ficus trees and Baobabs.  It is after all not every day that you see a giant Baobab in the middle of a series of waterfalls. Epupa itself is tiny, blink and you've missed it, however it is a good place to overnight, to watch the sun set, hear the roar of the falls and enjoy an ice cold gin and tonic while having the front seats to this spectacle.

From Epupa to Okongwati the road varies between sections that are either  graded or ungraded, miles of mopane trees, Himba settlements, large baobabs and the occasional broken down bakkie.  Okongwati, a tiny little blimp of a town is all a hustle and a bustle with a local police station a series of small shops selling the basics, like potatoes, onions, Nik Naks, washing powder and maize.  It is also famous for it's "no panty" bar, which always amuses us to no end, but the main reason that we stop here, is that this is your last chance to buy diesel from the locals, N$ 600 will get you 25 litres. From here we are heading towards the Van Zyl's pass community camp, the road divides into two 4wd tracks that appear and dissapear amongst the Mopane trees and river bed crossings, one minute the track is good, the next you negotiating loose rocks and steep sections and moving at the pace of a snail on a particularly good day. Last time we were here we found the most incredible place to wild camp, but the sun is starting to dip and we still hadn't found our elusive spot, instead we choose a spot on a rise on the side of the track and decide that this would be as good as any, with the bonus of a beautiful sunrise.  The tent is quickly erected, a fire place is made and the fire is lit, we have named the camp, Scorpion camp, grateful that I have gloves on to move the rocks for the fireplace.  The silence is always a reminder just how far you have left your regular life behind, and the velvety skies unfold to reveal the million star sky. It is an amazing feeling, to feel so alone and insignificant.

The next morning's sunrise doesn't disappoint and a bowl of pap and a good cup of coffee and we are one step closer to Van Zyl's pass. It's slow going and eventually I get out the car, dressed in a kikoi, t-shirt a pair of trainers, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses and before I realise it I have overtaken our car and I'm marching purposefully down the pitted and rutted track, there are hilarious moments, when the car is far behind and I encounter a shepherd or to, completely flummoxed by this crazy lady walking by herself in the middle of nowhere.  Every now and then the static of our walkie talkies breaking through with Christoph trying to find exactly where I am.  We reached the community campsite that afternoon and finally begin to understand the impact that Covid 19 has had on tourism, there is nobody around, the camp is deserted, the infrastructure in disarray, it's a sad sight indeed.  We continue down the riverbed until we find an ancient gnarled baobab, and decide that this is the place to make camp.  It is now day 3 without a shower and yes we have wet wipes but hell man, I'm looking forward to a shower. To be continued in Ep4

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