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Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907

Автор: Nicole Rudolph

Загружено: 2020-11-01

Просмотров: 76525

Описание: I thought you'd all enjoy a brief look at the layers that commonly went into an ensemble from 1907 as I'm working on a long-form video of sewing the tailored jacket. The Edwardian S-Bend silhouette was not achieved by way of twisting the body, but by padding out with multiple layers. Without the petticoats and pads, the fashionable look could not be achieved!

All of these pieces are reproductions that have been made by me. They are based on original fashion plates, drafting manuals, and garments.

Combinations: literally a combination of a chemise and drawers. Often made from lightweight, white cotton and trimmed in lace, ribbons, ruffles, and pleats. This was the garment worn against the skin to protect the outer garments from the body. It was only worn for the day before going into the wash.

Hip Pad: Worn under and/or over the corset to help fill out the hips. These were often stuffed with horsehair, wool, or other springy fibers. If you didn't have the fashionable proportions of waist to hip, you simply made the hips bigger!

S-Bend Corset: Cut to accentuate a curvy silhouette with the chest pushed forward and the hips tilted back. While the waist was usually reduced (comfortably), most of the extreme appearance came from extra padding at hips and/or bust. My natural waist is 30" and in the corset I can manage 27" comfortably (I'm not squishy). So, the extreme shape you see on me does not come from waist reduction!

Corset Cover: Worn to protect the clothing from catching or rubbing on the hard edges and metal busk of the corset, or vice-versa. This era often had ruffles on the bust to help accentuate the S-Bend "pigeon breast" shape.

Petticoat: In this case, made from cotton and trimmed with pleats and lace. Others came in wool or silk, and were trimmed in an endless variety of ways. This garments helped keep the skirt from binding about the legs as you moved and provided the desired shape.

Shirt Waist: Could be worn as an under layer or outer garment depending on the level of decoration and the situation. Closures often involved buttons or hooks and eyes- some were incredibly complex.

Princess Skirt: During the 1900s short jackets came into fashion and the waistline of skirts rose to accommodate this. Many skirt styles still ended just at the waist, but the Princess skirt came almost to the under bust. In order to keep the waistline from collapsing, boning was stitched to a lining structure.

Tailored Jacket: This particular style of sleeve was found in 1907 and 1908. The general jacket style is often termed "tailored" in fashion magazines (in French "Costume Tailleur" or "Tailored Suit"). It's not surprising as the original this garment was copied from had numerous layers of interfacing and reinforcement commonly found in tailored garments.

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Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907

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