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Pashmina refers to a fine variant of spun cashmere, the animal-hair fibre forming the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goat.[1][2] The word pashm means "wool" in Persian, but in Kashmir, pashm referred to the raw unspun wool of domesticated Changthangi goats.[2] In common parlance today, pashmina may refer either to the material or to the variant of the Kashmir shawl that is made from it.[3] Both generic cashmere and pashmina come from the same goat, but generic cashmere ranges from 12–21 microns in diameter, whereas pashmina refers only to those fibres that range from 12–16 microns
The material gained prominence through its use in the Kashmir shawl. In Mughal times, this was used as an indicator of rank and nobility. In 1526, Babur (1483–1530) founded the Mughal Empire in India, and established the practice of giving khilat (or "robes of honour", typically made of expensive fabric) to members of their durbar to indicate high service, great achievement, or royal favour.[5] In his time, the Mughal khilat was a set of clothes, which could include a turban, long coat, gown, fitted jacket, sash, shawl, trousers, shirt, and scarf.[6] One or all of these could be made of pashmina and embroidered in gold cloth.[6] In 1568, Kashmir was conquered by Babur's grandson Akbar.[6] In Akbar's time, a pair of pashmina shawls were an expected part of khil'at ceremonies.[6] From the 16th to the early 20th centuries, the Safavid, Zand, and Qajar emperors of Iran also wore pashmina and gifted Kashmir shawls as khilat within their political and religious practices.[6]
Pashmina blankets were also vital additions to a wealthy woman's dowry in India, Pakistan and Nepal.[7] In nineteenth-century English writing, despite the fact that shawls were worn by men, Kashmiri shawls became coded as women's luxuries. They acquired the status of heirlooms, worn by a girl on her marriage and coming-of-age,[8] and as heirlooms that women would inherit rather than purchase.[9] Since English law restricted women's abilities to inherit land, the Kashmir shawl served as an item of high exchange value that a woman could carry.[9] In France, the pashmina Kashmir shawl gained status as a fashion icon through Empress Joséphine's enthusiastic use.[10] These shawls suited the French well, providing the needed warmth, while adding visual interest to white French gowns through the traditional teardrop buta pattern and discreet floral motifs.[10] The shawl became a symbol of French bourgeois status from the Bourbon Restoration (1815–48) through the Second French Empire (1852–70). As a class marker, it fulfilled 19th century French tastes because it looked rich, had extensive ornamentation, artistic qualities, and was made of expensive raw materials.[6Goats used for pashmina shed their winter coat every spring. One goat sheds approximately 80–170 gram (3–6 ounces) of the fibre. In the spring (the moulting season), the goats naturally shed their undercoat, which regrows in winter. This undercoat is collected by combing the goat, not by shearing, as in other fine wools. A traditional producer of pashmina wool in the Ladakh region of the Himalayas are a people known as the Changpa.
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