My BEST SURFING YET in PUMPING Swell | Longboarding SECRET SPOT | POV Surf NZ

Описание: This session is definitely up there with the best of my life (so far).

Larger days can still be a bit intimidating, but the head high+ swell of this session (and light offshore winds) gave me more time on waves than I've had before. The power meant I was going faster but, perhaps counterintuitively, I had more room to manoeuvre and time to read the waves I was on.

Something clicked: you can only surf what's in front of you. Surfers with better technique might be able to get more out of a wave than I can but, fundamentally, you have to accept the wave you're on (or wait for a better one). For some ofthese waves, I could feel where the power was (instead of looking for the pocket) and - whilst I can't cutback properly yet - I was able to stay close to the right position, and make the most of the waves.

Shout out to my friend who came with me. He's not been surfing as long as I have, and it was incredible to see him catch some monsters on his foamie. I wish I caught more of them on camera.

00:00 Introduction
01:12 Paddle Out
02:02 Great Waves
03:10 Best Left (ever?)
03:52 Efforts & Wipeouts
04:30 Targeting a Right
05:28 WAVE OF THE SESSION
06:13 Powerful Waves
07:01 Long Reform
07:34 Coming In

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