31-05-2025 - Boulevard Émile Combes – The Pulse of Arles 360

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Boulevard Émile Combes is more than just a road; it is one of the most vital arteries in the city of Arles, located in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Southern France. Situated on the edge of the historic center, the boulevard acts as both a physical and symbolic bridge. It separates the ancient core—a recognized UNESCO World Heritage site—from the modern districts that expanded beyond the city’s historic walls. Stretching along the eastern and northeastern borders of the old city, it forms a crucial segment of the "boulevard ring" that encircles Arles, alongside Boulevard des Lices and Boulevard Georges Clémenceau.

Topographically, the boulevard follows the very path where Roman walls and medieval fortifications once stood. Arles, built on a hill overlooking the Rhône River and its surrounding marshes, has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century BCE. The boulevard’s position at the city's highest eastern point is a testament to its historical role as a strategic defense line.

In many ways, the boulevard traces the Roman "Castrum." In 46 BCE, Julius Caesar established Arles as a Roman colony to reward its support against Marseille. Under Emperor Augustus, it flourished into a heavily fortified stronghold of Southern Gaul. Even today, you can spot remnants of the original Roman walls along the boulevard. These massive structures often feature spolia—stones repurposed from earlier buildings—a common practice in Late Antiquity to quickly reinforce city defenses.

In 1981, UNESCO designated the Roman and Romanesque monuments of Arles as a World Heritage site. Today, managing Boulevard Émile Combes as a modern urban space is a delicate balancing act. The goal is to protect the "Outstanding Universal Value" of these ancient sites while allowing the city to grow.

Recently, the construction of Frank Gehry’s LUMA Tower nearby sparked intense debate regarding its impact on the historic skyline. This led UNESCO to request Heritage Impact Assessments (HIA) to ensure that 21st-century innovation does not diminish the integrity of the ancient world.

The boulevard is named after Justin-Louis Émile Combes (1835–1921), a physician and politician who served as the Prime Minister of France between 1902 and 1905. His name carries immense weight in Arles, a city with deep Christian roots.

Combes was the primary architect of Laïcité—the French principle of the separation of church and state. Though he studied for the priesthood in his youth, he eventually became a fierce anti-clerical leader. His policies paved the way for the 1905 law that redefined modern France.

The Symbolism: By naming the main artery encircling the old city—with all its historic churches—after Émile Combes, Arles created a literal "ring of secular sovereignty" around its religious heart.

Today, the boulevard is a thriving center of commerce and community service:

Healthcare: At number 37, the Pharmacie Dubois provides modern medical services, from vaccinations to emergency care.

Social Services: The boulevard houses the CCAS (Social Action Center) and the Red Cross, often within historic buildings slated for urban renewal.

Local Business: From the Hertz car rental at number 10—perfect for tourists exploring the Camargue—to the Monoprix retail hub and the Univet veterinary clinic, the boulevard serves every aspect of daily life.

Part 6: The Spirit of the Feria
The boulevard truly comes alive during the Feria de Pâques (Easter Fair) and the Feria du Riz (Rice Festival). During these celebrations, the urban layout transforms. The historic center closes to traffic, and Boulevard Émile Combes becomes the primary artery for:

Peñas: Spirited marching bands.

Abrivados: Traditional bull runs through the streets.

Bodegas: Open-air celebrations in historic courtyards.

Every Wednesday morning, the boulevard hosts the famous Arles Weekly Market. Stretching toward Place Lamartine, it is a cultural institution where local farmers, craftsmen, and tourists meet, proving that while its foundations are ancient, the soul of Boulevard Émile Combes is very much alive.