The Magical Terroirs of Pomerol

Описание: As part of the Commanderie de Bordeaux Educateurs’ focus this year on the Right Bank, three speakers representing strikingly different terroirs in Pomerol-- the smallest appellation of Bordeaux, with 138 estates averaging 5.9 hectares each-- spoke about the profound effects exerted by three types of terroir on the character of their respective wines. Chateau Conseillante, located in the heart of the Pomerol plateau, where various types of clay (partly shared with Ch. Petrus) overlie iron deposits, emphasizes merlot, 80%, over cabernet franc, 20%. The 2015 tasted of freshness, dark fruits and notes of cacao. At the southwest outskirts of the plateau, on the first Terrasse, Chateau Mazeyres has one of the largest Pomerol estates at 25 hectares. One portion consists of clay on the plateau, another has more sand, and a lower-lying section has mixed clay and sand near the river. Essentially, higher proportions of clay yield a richer wine here, whereas sand results in a lightness and finesse. Biodynamic farming is felt to allow an “authentic” expression of these differences. The 2015 tasted of red fruits, coffee, spice, licorice, with adequate freshness/acidity. Nearer the second Terrasse, Chateau Nenin is a large estate with gravel and clay, with sandy soil at a lower elevation. Drainage and soil temperature are determined by this variation, particularly in the gravelly areas. Plantings of cabernet franc (33%) have increased, and is felt to maintain freshness. Indeed the 2015, while luscious as expected in such a ripe year, has plenty of balancing acidity. Despite the range of terroirs and wine styles, these three wines are linked by a creamy, sexy character and precocious drinkability. In the closing Q&A session, the panel answered questions on assemblage and shapes/materials of aging containers, matching of grape varieties to soils, and the soft border between Pomerol and St. Emilion.
Tasting suggestions: the same three wines from 2015.