When Did Having a Prisoner's Last Meal Be Anything They Want Start?

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In this video:

If you happen to ever find yourself slated to have society as a whole decide it would be best if they killed you, the silver lining is that in many parts of the world where this is still a thing, the last meal you ever eat is likely to be significantly better than the ones you’ve been consuming up to that point in prison. So how did this rather odd meal tradition come about and is it actually true death row inmates can get anything they want to eat?

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Sources:

https://www.mdpi.com/2075-471X/3/1/1
https://news.google.com/newspapers?ni...
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Susanna...
https://www.casemine.com/judgement/us...
https://murderpedia.org/male.N/n1/nob...
https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/bl...
https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-150...
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandst...
https://lflank.wordpress.com/2015/08/...
https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5406/...
https://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/...
https://books.google.com/books?id=F9B...
https://www.news.com.au/world/asia/ba...
https://slate.com/news-and-politics/2...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Last_meal
https://www.chron.com/news/houston-te...
http://www.historyisnowmagazine.com/b...
https://www.businessinsider.com/the-l...