亞羅士打 Alor Setar | 阿賢鄉鎮食旅 Axian Small Town Foodcation

Описание: #亞羅士打 #AlorSetar
A Trail for Nostalgic Rice Foodies
【金風玉露不敵 #米飯香 】
#Rice - The Crop More Favoured Than Gold

亞羅士打人無飯不歡，他們不愧為「米都」子民，三餐嗜飯，菜餚有時是為了多扒幾口飯而存在。

率先登場的印裔穆斯林Nasi Lemak Royale 南印度咖哩飯，豐腴的酥油香飯（ Ney Choru ）澆上7種醬汁，這些醬汁由多種辛香料變法成魔，令人味蕾忽然很忙，你若分得出嗆辣辛香疊羅漢味覺層次，想必去考品酒執照也準會過關。

蘭蘭茶餐室門前緊閉，想吃好料請走後門。一人大廚蘭蘭埋鍋造飯偏愛辛香辣，薑蔥蒜和潑辣小青椒下得又多又猛，暴烈滋味直衝腦門，不多扒幾口飯實在無法鎮壓舌尖燒起的那團火！

亞羅士打雖無青青河邊草，不過有大伯公在河畔陪你賞夜景，吃一次晚餐幾乎等於「有吃有包庇」。話說早年吉打河邊大伯公廟為了籌措香火錢而在廟內開餐廳，意外升起越燒越旺的灶火，餐廳雖然煎炒煮炸應有盡有，可是第二代老闆娘的油炸「打架魚」，堪稱餐廳的神人之作！

由於深受泰緬食俗影響，糯米飯也是亞羅士打人的日常主食。馬來糯米飯有白黃之分，白色屬於日常，黃色則專屬節慶。鹹魚糯米飯、芒果糯米飯和炸雞糯米飯都搭配白色糯米飯，而馬來節慶必備的咖喱雞糯米飯則必然以黃薑粉染成金黃。難怪土生華人逢新生嬰兒滿月，定會派送黃姜糯米飯配咖喱雞，連拜祭本土神明拿督公也必備黃姜糯米飯。

亞羅士打有條金鋪林立的馬來由街，當金粉世家紛紛退場，金鋪變身民宿後所幸保留古董陳設與歷史遺緒，讓人得以在用金改造的老建築內吃一片蔗吧加椰餅、呷一口黑咖啡，這樣的流金歲月萬分逼真，即使找不到一塊金條也不遺憾。

Already a staple in most Malaysian households, Rice plays an even bigger role on dining tables in Alor Setar, the rice bowl of Malaysia.

Axian Small Town Foodcation recommends starting your day at Alor Setar with Nasi Lemak Royale, which is closer to Nasi Kandar than the santan-sambal combo version. The NeyChoru (aromatic ghee rice) is cooked with spices which you could drench with up to 7 types of curry. You require the keen senses of a sommelier to tell the spices apart, but a love for spicy food is all you need to enjoy it.

One has to go through literally the backdoor to dine at Restaurant Lan Utara. Kitchen is only run by one chef, who has a penchant for burning up tongues and tummies with fistfuls of chilli padi, ginger, onion, and garlic - you definitely need to douse that fire with rice.

To subsidise operating expenses, a temple by the river rented out its premises to a restaurant. Turns out that the business roared as strongly as the fire in the kitchen, diners were blessed with a great river view as they enjoyed their meals - the signature ‘fighting fish’ is the dish to go for here.

Some called it Pulut Kuning, some called Nasi Kunyit, whatever the name given, both are the same dish made of glutinous rice cooked with tumeric. This dish is known to the Malay and Chinese Peranakan and is always associated with special auspicious functions like thanksgiving. However you may enjoy the normal white version of Pulut Ikan Masin, Pulut Ayam Berempah and Pulut Mangga at Awi Pulut.

If you wish to connect with the past of Alor Setar, check into one of the home stays that used to be a jewellery shop. Some of the furnishings were kept intact to remind occupants of the good old days as they savored Kilang Tebu Kaya Puffs and black coffee in the morning. The golden days may be in the past, but the memories are no less sparkling.

#PekanCina #唐人街
#PekanMelayu #馬來由街

1. #HostelAhWaiHostelAhZhi
87, Pekan Melayu, Alor Setar, Kedah.
  / hostelawaz  

2.#NasiLemakRoyale Restoran SMR
10, Jalan Tunku Ibrahim, Alor Malai, Alor Setar, Kedah.
0700-1400

3.何慧漩 #VanessaHo （插畫家Illustrator）
  / vanessa.ho.52035  

4. #蘭蘭茶餐室 #RestoranLanUtara
18, Jalan Tunku Yaakub, Alor Star, Kedah.
1200-1500, 1800-2200

5. #海珠海鲜饭店 #RestaurantHoiChoo
99, Jalan Tunku Yaakub, Alor Star, Kedah.
1900-0200 (Closed on Sunday)

6. #AwiPulut
4, Jalan Langgar Alor, Alor Setar, Kedah.
0900-1830 (Closed on Friday)
  / awi-pulut-1513755932034574  

#阿賢鄉鎮食旅
#AxianSmallTownFoodcation
#啟播 #Premieres 14 November 2021
Sunday 10pm, Astro AEC 及 Astro Go