Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Day 4 (Yunomine to Koguchi) Sept. 4, 2025

Описание: We started our day in Yunomine Onsen, famous for its hot spring baths and also the starting point for the Dainichi-goe route. This short but steep trail led us directly to the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine.
Upon arriving in Hongu, we prioritized a visit to the Oyunohara Sanctuary, the original site of the shrine. It was here that we stood in awe before the magnificent Kumano Hongu Taisha Otorii, the largest Torii gate in the world, standing 33.9m tall and 42m wide, rising dramatically from the surrounding rice fields.
Having completed the hike all the way from Takajiri to the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, we went to the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center to collect our completion certificates by presenting the stamps collected in our Kumano Passport. Since we had previously walked the Camino de Santiago, we also applied for the coveted Dual Pilgrim Status. We were presented with a Dual Pilgrim Certificate, a pin badge, a Kumano Pilgrim Shell, and performed the symbolic Dual Pilgrim Taiko Ceremony at the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, where we drummed the sacred taiko to express our wishes. Though we had achieved this milestone, the full Kumano Kodo journey to Nachi and Shingu still beckoned.
Since Oku Japan booked us for a second night at Yonominesou Ryokan, Yus decided to take a well-earned rest day and simply explore Yunomine Onsen. I, however, wanted to keep moving.
I had planned to catch a bus from Hongu to Ukegawa to start the hike toward Koguchi, but after a long wait, I decided to walk the 3km to the Ukegawa trailhead. With most of my gear left at the ryokan, I carried only a light daypack, allowing me to move quickly. Despite the speed, it was a challenging 13km hike across the mountains. My deadline was the 4:10 PM last bus from Koguchi to get back to Yunomine.
Along the trail, I encountered a father and son from Slovakia—a tandem I’d noticed the previous days but hadn't spoken to. We met up at a resting hut near the Ishido-jaya Teahouse Remains and shared lunch, chatting about our mutual love for travel and the outdoors. After parting ways, I picked up my pace to ensure I made the last bus.
As I crossed the bridge over the Akagi River in Koguchi, I spotted Mathew and his friend from China—pilgrims I’d been crossing paths with for days—shirtless and wading in the river. They shouted for me to join them. My first thought was to decline. It was already 3:35 PM, and I still needed to find the bus stop. But as I reached the end of the bridge, the lure of the cool, clear water and the realization that I might never have this chance again made me change my mind. The short but spontaneous dip was incredibly refreshing!
We all rode the bus together, parting ways at Kanmaru where we caught different connections. Back at the ryokan, I immediately soaked in their private onsen before dinner. Hiking solo through the mountains was a great experience, yet the Kumano Kodo constantly reminds you that you are never truly alone. You're sure to meet fellow pilgrims ready to share their journeys.

Music: Solitude by Filo Starquez   / filo-starquez  
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