Ignition Coil / Light Dimmer High Voltage Generator - Variable Output Design

Описание: First a correction to my narrative- I said `starter' capacitor the first time. Should have said `run' capacitor.

Some safety notes:

This is DANGEROUS. In addition to the exposed 110volt A/C line, you have very high voltages on the secondary. If you come within 4 inches of this, the electricity can reach out and shock you. (The demonstration in the video is at 3.25 inches.)

The `run' capacitors can hold a dangerous charge. I have 10 meg ohm resistors across each cap, but it does take awhile to bleed off the charge.

The ignition coils should be mounted on their sides, NOT straight up. Though the coils are filled with transformer oil to eliminate internal arcing, there is a small amount of air also. If stood straight up, the oil may not cover the secondary/primary and it will arc internally, especially when you try to draw long arcs like in the video.

The coils heat up pretty quickly, especially at higher current levels. Limit the duty time to a minute or so.

Use automotive ignition coil wire with the rubber boot to minimize the chance of arcing from the primary connectors to the secondary center. Even with the boot, and a light coat of silicone glue around the outside body of the center secondary, I had an arc and the boot caught fire. A healthy dose of silicone on the outside of the boot seems to have solved the problem. (Make sure the glue dries)

I have three `run' capacitors, a 5, 10, and 15 MFD. Each of the `run' capacitors is controlled by a simple switch. If more than one switch is in the `on' position, those caps are energized. Capacitors in parallel add microfarads (i.e., if a 5 and the 15 are on I have 20 mfd). The higher the microfarads, more current passes to the coils. (The term `run capacitor' is used in the air conditioning and motor business. This is where you can buy them.. also EBAY has them. The difference between a `run' and `starter' is that a `run' is designed for continuous duty while a `starter' is designed for a short burst to get a motor turning)

The `run' capacitors are a must!! WITHOUT THEM YOU WILL GET CLOSE TO A DEAD SHORT AND BLOW YOUR BREAKERS. Of course you also want to put a fuse in line with this project. I used a 5 amp but it blew. A 10 amp seems to work fine, though you may want to try a 5 amp first.

The light dimmer chops the AC sine wave into a pulse, which is what the ignition coils needs to operate.

Even if you build a simple generator with one `run' capacitor, you should now have an idea what to expect with the different ratings.

I have another video of an earlier project. (Note the coils are standing straight up. My output is limited and it can be problematic)

ENJOY!! If any questions, just ask.
(I have a schematic for this project. If you want one, let me know: lasvegas_2 at hotmail dot com

Bruce