The Rolex Yacht Master Oysterflex & Geneva Watch Brands: From The Vault

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Tim Mosso and Brian Govberg return to Thursday morning with a Geneva-themed discussion of leading luxury watch brands. Today’s watches are built exclusively by watchmakers located in the city of canton of Geneva. Dress watches, sports watches, major brands, and independent horology are represented as we share our favorites with Watchbox’s global audience of watch collectors.

Brian’s selections include major names in the luxury watch marketplace. Leading the line is the Rolex Yacht-Master with the Oysterflex strap-bracelet. Launched in 2015, the Yacht-Master 116655 incorporates Rolex’s rubber strap, a rose gold case, and the Yacht-Master family’s first ceramic bezel insert.

F.P. Journe builds both Brian’s personal Chronometre a Resonance and today’s Octa Reserve de March from Watchbox’s inventory. This 38m rose gold automatic includes a power reserve complication and the discontinued brass Octa caliber 1300 from pre-2004 Journe production. Finally, Brian names the Patek Philippe World Time Moon 5575 as his favorite watch on today’s program. This white gold limited edition of 1,300 pieces was the standout model during Patek’s 2014 175th anniversary celebration.

Tim’s choices are further from the mainstream than Brian’s but reflect his passion for undiscovered value. The Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Cloisonne Enamel is 41mm of white gold fire. This travel time automatic includes a lavishly finished caliber 230 with a three-day power reserve, double-direct impulse “natural” escapement, and a fired enamel dial depicting the North and South Atlantic geographies. Tim names the Laurent Ferrier as his favorite watch of the day.

A Vacheron Constantin Medicus Skeleton Chronograph offers rarity and hand-craftsmanship at the highest level. The 37mm platinum limited edition of 30 pieces includes a hand skeletonized and engraved Lemania chronograph movement that begins life almost identical to that in an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch.

Finally, Tim showcases a Chopard L.U. Chopard Regulator from the Quattro series. This 39.5mm limited edition of 250 pieces in rose gold includes both Geneva Hallmark finishing and a COSC Swiss chronometer certification. For additional technical interest, this multi-complication includes a power reserve indicator, a second time zone, and guilloche dial cut on a rose lathe.

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