Quong

Описание: The UK's best compression feature!

0:04 - Worldline 7B
1:13 - Queen Kong 8A
8:44 - Queen Kong send
10:35 - Queen of Cop and Queen of Pop

This is one of the boulders I've spent the most time on, trying it on four separate days last year and finally putting it to bed in the first session this spring. A lot of people think it's soft and some give it 7C+, but I'm more than happy having 8A for it.
Looking back it's definitely not as nails as I thought it was and the time spent on it doesn't quite reflect the difficulty, since I was sticking the crux very early on then just making small beta mistakes higher up on what really shouldn't be very hard moves. That and the usual problems with heels and toes not sticking in dodgy shoes...
Putting my heel on the little chicken head crimp thing really was all it took to get through to the top, but I'm almost glad it took as long as it did, because I enjoyed every session and don't think I succumbed to the characteristic Page Rage in any of them.

The two problems at the end I originally thought would be first ascents up for grabs but it turns out Dan Varian climbed the direct from a sit start but never gave it a name or wrote it up anywhere, so Cal and I gave them the names and hopefully some more people try them out.