Focus On: The Double Breasted Suit | Sartorial Styles feat. Oliver Wicks

Описание: • Check out Oliver Wicks and get a free Silk Tie with your first Custom Suit Order: https://www.oliverwicks.com/secret/6d...

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• Watch Hugo Jacomet's Video about Double Breasted Suits:    • All About the Double-Breasted Suit  

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Ladies and Gentlemen, I’m Benjamin and you are watching Sartorial Styles. In this installment we focus on the double breasted suit.

Intro

Before we start, give me a second to say thank you to Oliver Wicks. Oliver Wicks is an online made to measure service offering suits, shirts and accessories. The double breasted suit I am wearing right at the moment is made by Oliver Wicks of a Super 150’s wool fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico. They did not pay me to do this video and I even paid the full price of this suit myself. They did generously offer me to help promoting this video.

So, where do I start? A double breasted suit technically is a double breasted jacket with a matching pair of trousers. There is nothing like a double breasted pair of trousers and, of course, there can be a double breasted jacket without matching trousers. Probably the most famous example for this is a classic navy blazer with gold brass buttons. Double breasted means, in contrast to single breasted, that you have overlapping front flaps with two columns of buttons. In my native language, German, a jacket like this is called a Zweireiher, which basically translates to jacket with two rows of buttons.

Like the jacket you currently see on screen, most modern double breasted jackets come with six buttons. Especially on more formal garments like tuxedos, four buttons are pretty usual, too. The most common button stance is six on two. A six on two jacket features a total of six buttons with only two being intended to be used. The six on one button stance on the other hand always reminds me of Luca Rubinacci, it’s less common but a very fresh option if you seek to stand out.

Especially back in the days, double breasted jackets were seen as more formal than single breasted jackets and therefore always featured peak lapels. In addition, patch pockets were rarely seen because they are more casual than jetted pockets or flap pockets.

Talking about old times, what about the history of the garment? Deep-diving into the origins of double breasted jackets would definitely go beyond the scope of this video. If you want to know more about it, I strongly recommend this video my good friend Hugo Jacomet published on his Sartorial Talks YouTube channel.

As we talked about the common details a double breasted suit features - two button rows, peak lapels, jetted pockets or flap pockets - let’s talk about who can actually pull a garment like this off. I often heard that slim or even skinny people who are tall and do not have a very broad chest and shoulder area should not wear double breasted jackets. Let me say, I am the living proof that this thesis is wrong. Furthermore, some people claim that double breasted suits are garments reserved for older gentlemen. If you don’t trust me, Kingsman is available on Netflix in many countries and a proof that double breasted suits are not only cool, but also look great on young gentlemen.

There is no reason why you should not wear a double breasted suit. Depending on where you live, it makes you stand out not in a flashy or even clownish way but in a classically elegant manner. It is a beautiful garment that flatters many body types and can be worn by gentlemen and surely also ladies of any age.

Did I make you want to buy a double breasted suit now? Great! This is the perfect time to mention my friends over at Oliver Wicks again. They offer suits tailored in Europe to your measurements. You can choose from many different options, certainly including double breasted jackets with a six on two button stance. They offer a great fit guarantee - if you are not satisfied with what you got, you can return the suit for free up to 30 days after it arrived. And if you have minor adjustments to make, they pay alterations at your local tailor up to 125 Dollars for 365 days.

Another advantage of Oliver Wicks is their great choice of fabrics from Italy and England. They buy from many renowned mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Angelico, E. Thomas and Alfred Brown. Their prices start at 599 Dollars for two piece suits made from Super 110’s wool or linen. They also offer high twisted wool fabrics, for example Super 160’s from VBC. These start at 899 Dollars.

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