A Closer Look at the Progressive Dynamics Converter with Charge Wizard and Distribution Panel

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Hey guys, it's Jake here with etrailer. Today we're gonna be taking a look at the line of Progressive Dynamics converters. What we're gonna start off with is we're gonna talk about what an RV converter does so you know why it's very, very important to have one and why it needs to be replaced. So an RV converter is designed to take AC power and convert it into DC power. An inverter is designed to take DC power and turn it into AC power. So AC power is gonna be the power coming off the power post at your campsite.

Most of your accessories on the inside of your RV or your camper, we're in a horse trailer today, are going to be DC accessories. So accessories that you can use off of your battery 'cause they want you to be able to use all those things while you're out camping without power. You'll see all of our fuses here on the right side. Those are all of our DC accessories. So outlets, the lights in your RV, most of those are going to be DC accessories.

These are all of our AC outlets, which are gonna be like our air conditioner, our microwave, our refrigerator. Those are all your standard 110 AC accessories. These are all DC, so you need to have a converter whenever you're in your RV and you want to use the power post and not the power from your battery to be able to power all those accessories. You're gonna want to have your lights on a majority of the weekend when you're out camping, but you don't want to constantly be using that power from your battery and hope that it's charged in time for you to get back to it. Now, we are working with the 4500 series today.

You can see that the 4500 series is gonna come with Wago connectors, which are these orange tabs here on the side. They make it really, really easy to get those DC accessories attached once you convert it over to this converter. Down here in the bottom, this is going to be the actual converter itself. Up here on the left, you can kind of see this box. This is essentially going to be the same thing as the breaker panel in your house.

So you have normal breakers in here. If you trip something in your RV, this is where you come to go to trip it again so that your accessory starts working again. So that's gonna be really, really similar to the one in your house. And when it comes to choosing the correct converter for your application, if you're replacing one in your RV and you want to get the same one, that is very, very easy. You open the door, the sticker on the inside of the door or somewhere on the unit itself should say that it is going to be a 60-amp service. So essentially, it's designed to handle 60 amps at the same time before the converter starts to go into the protect itself mode. What you want to do is you want to either match the exact same converter that you have and make sure that you've got the correct size picked out. It's pretty easy actually to figure that out 'cause the size is going to pretty well match the amperage, if you go down in amperage, the units can tend to get a little smaller. So check the size first and then make sure that the amperage matches. If you're having trouble in your RV with stuff constantly blowing the service, you can move up, recommended by Progressive Dynamics, only 10 amps. So we have a 60-amp here. If we had issues with, we turn all of our lights on, we're trying to run the microwave and other accessories at the same time, maybe you try to blow dry your hair, and you keep popping the service, you can move up 10 amps, so we can move up to a 70-amp service so we're not constantly blowing the machine. If you're building your own trailer and you're wanting to add a converter, that's where it gets a little bit trickier what size that you're gonna need for it, 'cause you don't want to necessarily go with a higher amperage converter, because your wires might not be big enough to be able to have that power draw going through it. So that's kind of where that 10-amp rule comes from, is that you don't want to overwork the wiring in your trailer, 'cause the manufacturer of your trailer and the converter itself has kind of worked together to figure out what's the right one for your setup. Going up 10 amps is really not a huge deal, so that's why they say that's okay. But if you're starting from scratch, there's an equation that you can do, and essentially what it is is it's going to be a p