Mountain and Sea House:Revisiting the Glory of Taiwanese Cuisine 華燈初上，山海樓重現 1930 年代台菜風華

Описание: Taiwanese cuisine was prevalently characterised by exquisiteness around the 1930s, if you consider the many refined restaurants of the Beitou hot springs region. Admittedly, Taiwanese cuisine today is typically associated with street food and home-style cooking, and many finely crafted recipes didn’t get a chance to be passed on. To recapture the gorgeous Taiwanese cuisine of the 1930s, the Yong Feng Yu Group, investor of organic produce restaurants including Green & Safe in Shanghai, has found Mountain and Sea House as well as Master Cai Ruilang, a traditional Taiwanese cuisine inheritor who has been in the business for 30 years and once studied under Master Huang Dexing of Peng Lai Ge Restaurant, one of the four major restaurants in Taiwan. The group also sought advice from local cuisine expert Huang Wanling on a few classic Taiwanese dishes in Tainan.

This meal reminded me of those good old family banqueting times when I was a child. In fact, in the early days of Taiwan, banquet Chefs were very well trained and had solid cooking skills, but as time passed by, banquets have gradually lost their appeal due to industrialised production and reduced craftsmanship. Mountain and Sea House has retrieved a luscious piece of culinary culture from the past, bringing back the exquisite 1930s style that was once lost in the tides of history.

在 30 年代左右精緻台菜盛行，北投溫泉一帶就有很多酒家菜，但現在談到台菜印象不外乎街頭小吃，以及簡單的家庭料理，精緻手路菜餚幾乎失傳。永豐餘集團不只投入耳熟能詳的有機農產，包含在上海著名的Green＆Safe 。投資台北山海樓，就是為了找回 30 年代華麗台菜宴席的手路菜，他們追本溯源，找來入行近 30 年的台菜師傅蔡瑞郎(郎師)，他曾經師從台灣四大酒家之一的蓬萊閣師傅黃德興，傳承了 30 年代數十道台菜，堪稱老台菜傳人之一，此外還到台南向台菜專家黃婉玲老師請益幾道復古台菜。

這一餐讓我想起兒時的辦桌回憶，很讓人感動。其實早期台灣地區總鋪師實力都很堅強，但隨著歷史變遷與時代更迭，辦桌菜餚也逐漸工廠化，老味道與工藝盡失。山海樓不僅採用本地精選食材，更用心找回歷史上一段華麗的飲食文化，讓被歷史洪流淹沒的精緻30年代風華再現。
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