Climbing anchor replacement

Описание: I work with the Rumney Climbers Association an initiative to replace old mechanical bolts with new glue-ins. Some of the old ones are rusted, nasty and scary. Most are fairly decent stainless bolts that have loosened in the soft Rumney schist.

People ask me all sorts of questions about the process so I made this little video to help answer a few. In this demonstration I Remove a Rawl 5-piece bolt and replace it with a stainless twist bolt.

If you decide you want to get into this that’s great! There’s a seemingly endless number of bolts that need upgrading, but this video isn’t a reasonable substitute for a mentor who can walk you through your first few bolts. If you decide to just try it, please don’t start on an area classic. Find an out of the way route that no one is too concerned with and work out the kinks there. Or better yet practice on rocks in your yard before taking it to the crags. Before taking this stuff to a real established climbing area talk with locals (especially the ones who have been around a couple/few decades) and or talk to the local climbing organization that manages the area.

The crux is finding a retrieval tool (the nail in the video) that works well. That’s so much to Chris Smith who taught me the craft and got me the nail. Cheers all, and happy climbing.