Jason Kehl’s World of Illusions - Episode 11 - Hueco Proper

Описание: Doing the "proper sit" has always been kinda the bottom line for me. If we are going to have standards, let's set them high. It could be higher I guess, like on the dirt or a carpet. But hey, who am I kidding? I like pleasantries. So in situations where is it possible to sit start, I always do and do it “proper”. That means one pad maximum and preferably not a super thick highball pad. Sure, you might blow an o-ring trying to pull off the ground and yes I get it, erosion happens. But that is not what I am taking about here. I'm talking basic situations where doing the sit start is the honorable thing to do.

"Crash Dummy” on West Mountain has always been one of my favorites in Hueco, especially because of that wicked pinch in the middle! I've never really understood the start though, the two guidebooks have different descriptions and a website suggests lying down on the shelf to the right, which is quite odd. So I was happy to simplify it with the proper sit. I never really noticed it before, because at first glance it doesn't look like there are and holds down there, but in fact it works out to be some cool wide compression moves on slopers. This may have been done before, I have no clue, but it is super fun and it really ties the whole problem together and helps me stay grounded.

The "Bulb of Percussion" is a fun problem on the top of East Mountain. I had tried the cryptic lower start unsuccessfully maybe 10 years ago. It adds 10 moves and is a whole problem by itself, the crux being the last move into the stand. With an interesting sequence and comfy slopers the whole way, it just begs to be climbed. I had several different betas for the crux and they all just barely worked, but I could never link any of them from the start. My first thought was- I need to get stronger. Then after repeatedly not getting any stronger, my second thought was- I need to figure better beta. So I broke down that move and amazingly enough the brain was stronger than the brawn and I sent it next go with a sneaky close toe hook.

Lastly we have the overlooked sit start to “Overlooked” an amazing highball from Master Ty Foose that sits on the edge of East Mountain. I referred to this one as the poor mans “Slashface” while I was working it, because of the similar looking diagonal crimp seam on a 45 degree wall. Adding only 4 moves probably doubles the grade and is the definition of hard climbing. Not only small difficult handholds, the footholds are twice as bad. In the real world a smart person would try something a couple times and be like, ok I can’t do this and walk away. But for some reason I won’t take that as an answer, so I just keep going and doing, slowly mutating my body. I am usually always happy if I can learn one thing, that’s progress and a good reason to keep coming back until the line has been beaten into submission.

Also, I think I will discontinue my World of Illusion series, 11 seems like a good time to stop. I won’t stop making videos all together, just this format. I started this series going on 10 years ago now, with mostly videos of Hueco Tanks to keep you updated on the first ascents from each season. I hope you have enjoyed the ride as much as me!

First Ascents- Crash Dummy Sit, Bipolar Percussion, Apex Predator

Check out the rest of my "World of Illusion" Series here-
   • World of Illusions  


Music

Sumac Dub - Le Jardin de Lucy
Dance of the Demons - Japanese War Drums
The Nearness Of... - Noire Antidote

Title Music

J Krawiets Goes Electro - Dark Cloud
Alan Watts - Still in the Mind Part 1

Special thanks to

So iLL Holds
Friction Labs
Send Climbing
Rhino Skin Solutions
Mond Hund
Wagon Wheel Co opt
Bluewater Ropes
Crimp Chimps

Filmed on location at
Hueco Tanks State Park
and Historical Site
in El Paso, Texas