Mont Blanc via the Kuffner ridge

Описание: Julius Najm & Jon Murua
Mont Maudit & Mont Blanc via Kuffner Ridge

Date: 12.7.2020

Transcript:

Mont Blanc is for many a major mountaineering achievement and for many others it is an easy mountain without anything exciting.

This is all relative. It all depends.

This time, we chose a beautiful line through the Kuffner ridge of Mont Maudit and connected it with the 3 monts route to Mont Blanc.

The Kuffner ridge is a popular route because of its beautiful scenery. They say that technical difficulties are moderate, but I find it a serious route. Engaged and requiring good climbing skills.
It also goes up to 4,400 metres which is not to be taken lightly.

I actually know people that got in serious trouble. It took them too long climb and had to be rescued in helicopter by midnight, exhausted and shivering.

Our experience was just the opposite!
We had one of those days where everything worked out smoothly and the timing we did is a good proof of that.
We run through the route opening the trace after the last snowfall and ended up in the summit of Mont Maudit before my usual breakfast time.

Slowly slowly some other teams starting to reach the summit full of joy. No wonder why! Such a beautiful place!

My goal that day was to aclimitise.
I hadn't been anywhere near 4K in far too long and I wanted to aclimitise to be ready for the Peuterey integral.
The mission was accomplished, but when my partner proposed to continue up to the Mont Blanc summit I thought it would be even better.

And this is how the Mont Blanc becomes a challenging endeavour even for who have climbed it many times. Aclimitising the hard way!

As they say in Kilimanjaro: Pole-Pole
Well, Pole-Pole, but overtaking everybody on the way.
It was freezing cold, specially with the wind and we didn't want to stop so we kept pushing to reach the summit out of breath.

The descent started smoothly, but we soon reached the col de la Brenva where we had to reclimb Mont Maudit.

The descent from Mont Maudit was very tricky. There were some sections of steep hard ice and I had to down climb quite a bit with a single ice axe.

Luckily, there were a couple of rappels that helped descend the hardest sections to reach the col Maudit.

The descend of Mont Blanc du Tacul was straight forward, but we run fast to reduce the exposure to the minimum to avalanches and seracs.


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