N21 by ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA WOMEN'S SPRING SUMMER 2018 |

Описание: Re-live the catwalk experience on numeroventuno.com
#N21SS18

"Don’t you just hate it when one label shamelessly lifts a look from another label? Take Look 35 from this No. 21 collection, a knitted sheer sheath of a dress lined with paillettes and worn over red underwear. What a boldly blatant, brazen rip-off! The exact same look—okay, the underwear was blue, but come on—last walked the runway at Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Spring/Summer 1997 show.

Oh, right.

Dell’Acqua lost creative control of his eponymous label some years ago, a cruel fate that has befallen many excellent designers. He has since felt, he said, very “sad” about the situation, but has worked through it. Today, he set out to reclaim his codes. The label he founded in 1996 was very different to No. 21—which is a sportier, more casual, less evening line—and here, Dell’Acqua salvaged one to extend the other.

Paillettes shimmered and feathers shivered across a suite of rosily-accented to sand-toned looks (“these were one of my favorite tones to work with”). They were sometimes utterly evening: sheer and tiered dresses with lingerie details or ruche-fronted skirt-and-shirt combinations (the lace in Look 20 was the very same botanical pattern as the first lace this designer ever used). More contemporarily put together looks incorporated leather parkas with crystal-lined hoods and leather shirts, or cropped knit cardigans worn over detached leather hoods.

A black-based section featured that pivotal Look 35, plus skirts and a tulle-sheathed jacket in a black nylon long-ago favored by this designer. Under it, a tulle layer skirt was garlanded with a silvery abstract floral, exactly the same as one worn in the aforementioned Spring/Summer ’97 show. So why was Dell’Acqua so into one particular season that went on sale 20 years ago? The answer was simple: “This was my favorite collection. And it was very, very successful too.” And why copy himself? The answer was carefully diplomatic: “For me, in this moment, fashion is very confused.”

When all around you is in flux, know thyself".

Thanks to @vogue

#N21 #womenswear by #alessandrodellacqua #fashion #inspiration #mfw