Wave of the Day: Brian Toth's Puerto Rican Double Spitter - “That one made my day.”

Описание: Puerto Rico’s Brian Toth revisited his homebreak for the first time in a while on Saturday. It’s a fickle, heavy slab breaking over shallow reef in front of a giant rock, and Toth’s put in many years out there and knows the dangers and rewards of the place as well as anyone. These days, he’s a fire-person and very involved dad, so not quite on it as much as before, but when he saw Saturday’s forecast, he fueled up on a bunch of strong coffee, dashed to the lot at 5:30am and paddled out well before sunrise.

"It was just kinda gloomy and gray," he said. "I couldn't see anything, could just hear the thumping. I didn't know how big it was and I was kinda nervous 'cause I haven't surfed big waves down there in a long time. As the sun came up and the morning went on, it got bigger, as forecast, and conditions were just beautiful: baby blue water, nice offshore winds and eight to 10 feet."

A bomb set came in around 10:30am. Toth was up in the rotation. "Had a nice, steep drop," he said. "Pulled under the lip, had to do one hell pump, kind of stood there and then all of a sudden I just saw it just going down the line and it spat on me first. And then this huge other lip came over, I was on the foamball, got through that, it spat again -- and then came out, and I was just like, 'yes, finally!' I haven't gotten that slotted in a while. So I was stoked. And everyone got good waves that day. It was good to be back. And it looks like there's more coming!" (Yes, it does.)

Filmed by: Jerry Molina and Jorgito Rivera
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