18) Testa di violino parte diciottesima - Sgrossatura della cassetta piroli

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ENGLISH TRANSLATION of the written notes in the video, in order of appearance :

00:04 - Violin scroll part eighteen - Roughing of the inside of the peg box

00:15 - Before start digging refine the lines of the pegbox using some fine cut oval files, the knife and the flat scraper

00:28 - Connect harmonically the narrowing from the maximum width of the box to the nut, preserving the marks of the neck lines

01:56 - Finish the throat harmonizing the lines with the curves of the back and of the volute

02:48 - Clean the surface definitively removing all marks of the compass and the remaining scratches

03:04 - Make sure that the throat space gradually open outward without narrowing

03:14 - Keep concave the pegbox line in correspondence with the the volute, changing the direction of the curve together with the line of the back

03:26 - Mark the thickness of the upper part of the jaws (5 mm)

03:56 - Draw the end of the pegbox using the volute as a guide

04:04 - Make sure of the symmetry of jaws with respect to the center line at the nut

04:22 - Put the scroll in the vice making sure it is parallel to the plane of the bench, to have a safe and intuitive reference of verticality

04:33 - Use a drill of 5 mm in diameter, marking with tape the maximum depth for roughing, which must not exceed the lower level of the holes for the pegs

04:50 - Tilt well the drill for the first two holes, heading directly toward the G peg to keep a well inclined wall at the nut

05:14 - Always tilt the drill also towards the outside, in order to respect the increase in thickness of the walls at the box bottom (7 mm)

05:30 - Start drilling perpendicularly making a guide hole

05:37 - Tilt outward

05:52 - Perpendicular guide hole

05:57 - Tilt outward

06:07 - For holes at the end of the box dig with a gouge obtaining a plane to drill perpendicularly without slide the drill bit

06:44 - Use extreme care not to damage the volute touching it with the drill bit

06:56 - Start roughing with a flat and wide gouge cutting the links between holes

07:18 - Use a narrow gouge and very curved to eliminate more easily the excess wood

07:35 - Continue with the 22 mm chisel

08:22 - Switch to the 6 mm chisel instead of the gouge to finish the digging coming inside corners

08:36 - Isolate the entire surface of jaws to highlight the line well and prevent chipping

09:18 - Always cut strongly angled in order to respect the increase of the thickness of the walls at the bottom of the box (5 mm above, 7 mm at the bottom)

10:39 - Cut accurately the corners at the end of the box, isolating the surface of jaws to avoid tearing it accidentally

11:01 - Cut along the fiber split creating a plane to facilitate the subsequent working and determine the line of the end of the box

11:47 - Use a long-bladed knife to cut into corners unreachable with chisels and for incise the base of the walls

12:18 - Cut the terminal endgrain wall taking care to respect the inclination of the side walls

12:37 - With the 6 mm chisel cut the bottom of the box bringing it to about 3 mm below the holes for the pegs, following the curve of the back as a reference

12:55 - Trim the endgrain wall at the nut defining well the corners, leaving it though still abundant to protect the gluing surface of the nut

13:41 - With a 10 mm chisel cut the bottom underneath the G peg in the opposite direction, cutting well the sides and paying attention to the fiber split

14:01 - Check that the thickness of the bottom is close to the definitive measure but still slightly abundant (about 5.5 / 6.0 mm)

14:21 - Finish the thickness at the bottom of the walls, leaving it still abundant of about half a millimeter

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