etrailer | Setting up the Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler

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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-d...
Today on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler, we'll be having a look at and installing the Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver. Part Number 65069. All right. Here's what our hitch looks like installed. As you can see, it tucks up nicely underneath our front bumper here and doesn't really stick out much past where a license plate would sit. It is recessed behind the push part here of our bumper by our fog lights.

With the recess past this point here, we don't have to worry about adding an excessive amount of length to our vehicle, which can make it difficult to park in close quarter situations. Now, this hitch has a 500 pound vertical load limit, which is the amount forcing it down and it has a nine thousand pound max winch line pull. The gross trailer weight rating is five thousand pounds. Now, we have two holes here on the side of the hitch. The one closest to the vehicle. That is your standard five-eighth of an inch diameter hitch pin hole to secure whatever hitch mounted accessory you may have, such as a winch plate, a snowplow, or a spare tire carrier.

The smaller hole here is a J Pin stabilization device hole to save some of that annoying shake, play, and rattle out of what's inserted inside your receiver. What I really like about this front mount hitch compared to others is the amount of clearance that we have around it. It makes it easier for us to hook up to whatever accessory we have. Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need. You're looking at about 18-1/2 inches from the ground to the top of the two inch receiver opening and about five inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the front most part of the bumper. Now that we've gone over some features of our front mount hitch, we'll show you how to get it installed. All right, the first thing we're going to do to begin our installation is remove our lower air deflector right here.

It's held in place with six push pin fasteners. There's four on the front. Now, we have two more on the back side, one in each corner. One here and then one here. Let's start by popping these out first.

You can use a flathead screwdriver or a trim panel tool. We'll do the rest the same way in the front. Okay, now we'll take our large spacer block here and we'll insert it inside our bumper right below each fog light to make the hole smaller for our bolt to pass through and give it strength. Now, I'll raise the hitch up in position and we'll have a second set of hands to hold it in place while we start our hardware. Okay, we'll take our bolt now. These are the two longer bolts that we have. A conical toothed washer with the teeth facing up towards the hitch, we'll run it through the hole and the spacer block that's in place and we'll thread on one of our nuts on the back side. Okay, now we'll do our top bolt on the side. For that, we'll use a conical toothed washer and one of our shorter bolts and a handle nut. We'll stick the handle nut through this opening here in the side. All right, we have it in position. Now we'll thread our bolt onto the handle nut. Now we'll do bottom bolt pole. For that, we'll use another one of our short bolts and our lock washer and a handle nut. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. Okay, now we'll snug down all of our hardware. Now we'll use a wrench to hold the nut in place on the bottom bolt and we'll snug it down. Okay, now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. We'll make sure we do our side ones too. These get less torque than the lower ones, so make sure you pay attention to that. It might be easier to use an extension with a universal on these. Okay, now we can just take our handle nut, the part that's left over, and a pair of pliers. We'll just wiggle it back and forth until it snaps off. We can push it back up inside the frame. We'll do that for all four. Okay, now this part is optional, but our customer requested this, so we're going to do it. You can reinstall your lower air valance here or lower air deflector. You have to trim it in order to do it. We'll make a couple marks here about how wide we need to go. We'll just connect the lines all the way up. We'll cut this section out and reinstall this piece. Okay, we'll use a rotary tool here to make our cut. If you don't have a rotary tool, you can use a sharp utility knife or something along that nature to do this