中國成都配德 Paired 完全餐酒搭配 ｜川式法餐｜竟然在面团里烤鸭?!

Описание: 去年底才首次拜訪成都配德。配德的每一家店的火爆成為了一種現象級的狀態。

配德本身的名字來自 Paired（D），特別是Pairing。來這裡吃飯，是接受一整套已經被設計好的pairing，在中國並不常見，除了 UV。對餐廳來講反而是極度有利於流程與節奏控制的；而在國外，這早已不是什麼新鮮事。

主廚 Toto 的料理風格是輕盈的。一道「酸玉米煎餅、黑毛豬與山黃皮」令我驚喜。餅皮薄脆卻不油膩。內填法式肉醬，佐以山黃皮的酸度和蟹味菇的野性口感，必須馬上入口。 沒想到最驚艷的是現場完成的寧德黃魚，搭配酸菜、豬肚與芋頭。黃魚以高溫蒸熟，豬肚軟糯近入口即化。豬肚與黃魚的組合，成為我記憶點最深的元素。

配德開啓了全新的模式。你走進了一個朋友的廚房，主廚與侍酒師會親自介紹菜品與酒，節奏控制得非常好。在這「過度介紹已經成為問題」的時代，恰到好處很難得。 板前現場蒸煮、即席完成的呈現方式，配酒非常慷慨，老實說，替餐廳捏一把冷汗。 專業的餐酒搭配，遠高於預期的菜餚；不是傳統意義上的白桌布 fine dining，但在此用餐讓人會心一笑。

I first visited Pairedd in Chengdu at the end of last year, yet the overwhelming popularity of every Pairedd branch has already become something of a phenomenon.

The name Pairedd comes from “Paired (D)”, with an emphasis on pairing. Dining here means embracing a fully designed pairing experience from start to finish. In China, this approach is still relatively uncommon—aside from places like Ultraviolet.

Chef Toto’s cuisine is light and precise. Sour corn pancake with Berkshire pork and Chinese bayberry—came as a delightful surprise. The pancake skin was crispy like a cracker, crunchy yet not greasy. The rillette inside was balanced by the bright acidity of bayberry and the earthy mushrooms.

Unexpectedly, the most striking course was the yellow croaker, finished tableside and paired with pickled mustard greens, pork tripe, and taro. The fish was steamed while the pork tripe was tender and almost melted in the mouth.

Pairedd feels like a friend’s kitchen: the chef and sommelier introduce each dish and wine, with sincerity and excellent control of timing. In an era where over-explaininghas become a problem, this sense of restraint is truly refreshing.The food-and-wine pairing is highly professional, and the dishes consistently exceed expectations. This is not white-tablecloth fine dining in the traditional sense, yet dining here leaves you with a quiet, knowing smile.

@pairedd_restaurant

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