Scents of nature - nature in a bottle | Inspired by nature | ABC Australia

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Botanical perfumer Nicole Thomas combines her love for plants with the world of scent.

Based in Melbourne’s historic Block Arcade, Nicole Thomas, a French-trained perfumer’s mission is simple - “I want to help city dwellers connect to nature, back to that sanctum. I want to give them a garden in a bottle and do it in a modern language in the middle of the city”.

All of Nicole’s perfumes are formulated from naturally derived plant oils.
The sources of her fragrances from the plant world are broad and varied.
Flowers, herbs, spices, resins are all a source of plant aromatics.

The method of extracting the scents from the plants varies depending on the material. “We have a big steam distiller set up in the window, and that’s used for leafy things like tarragon and rosemary”.

“Citrus scents are removed using a centrifugal press”.

However, flowers “are very delicate and the scents can be destroyed by steam.
They used to use a technique called enfleurage where the scent was embodied into animal fat.
Now they use carbon dioxide extraction, it’s more effective and efficient”.

Nicole says when developing a perfume, the combined scents are divided up into a palette of “notes”; the top, heart and base notes is descending order. “The notes are divided into longevity; you’re balancing lengths of time with types of scent”.
“The top note is the first smell, but it doesn’t last for long. It’s usually a citrus or a spice.”

The heart note is the middle and forms the body of the fragrance. “It’s often flowers, lavender or tuberose. Or it can be a green leafy smell like petitgrain”.

The final layer is the base note, revealed at the higher notes oxidise and evaporate. “It’s the base that lingers on the skin. It’s often deep and earthy, vetiver, resins, woods that last longer”.

“You’re trying balance art and science with one breath... How long will it last on your skin? Often it’s as long as nature intended”.

Nicole is clear about the purpose of her work: “With urbanisation people are becoming disconnected from the senses of the natural world around them and I want them to be able to reconnect to that, to give them something real. It’s important”. “I want them to be able to open a bottle and be in a garden and in nature, even in the city”.
Produced by ABC Gardening Australia


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