Gaping at the Back Waist - Option 2 - On Styles with a Waistband - how to fix a sewing pattern

Описание: Here is another for the back gaping at the waist area. This one is for styles with a waistband (also works with a yoke). This gaping happens when the back is not sitting close to the body, especially when sitting down.

Before having the waistband and the yoke, we start with a sloper with darts. If you already have a style with a waistband, you can just skip straight to the waistband and adjust it there.

*At the back-waist area, pin your style the amount you need to make it tighter and closer to the body.
*Measure the amount you pinned. You may need to pin into a yoke if you have one, or you may only have to pin on the waistband. This is up to your fitting sample.
*In your pattern, you will have a waistband and maybe a yoke. The shape of the yoke could change a lot.
*Cut along the waistband.
*You may want to pin a little bit on my yoke as well. Mark the amount you pinned.
*Go to zero wherever you stop pinning and then slash it closed. This means you'll fold the amount you've pinned and close it. Note that the waistband pivots and gives us more shape. That's going to hug the body better in the back.
*For the yoke, since it's hard to fold over such a small amount, you can slash it and just close it.

If you had to continue pinning beyond that yoke, maybe down further, you can adjust the back pattern by taking it off slightly at the back rise, slightly at the side seam. This is if you had to slash at the bottom portion of that yoke, too.

Make sure you smooth out those yoke lines, smooth out the waistband seams, and true the seams.

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