a day surfing in japan

Описание: plz watch in 4k so it doesn't suck! ...
it only became apparent to me that there was surf in japan when I saw an instagram reel of someone surfing under Mt. Fuji at sunset. As soon as I saw the reel I did my research and added the day trip into my upcomnig trip. It was in fact freezing, but reminded me of the six weeks I had spent camping and surfing in tofino, canada. I was hesitant if I would actually surf, or just spend my time filming the locals. I do feel in life that the coolest experiences are on the other side of doing something that requires a little more effort. that is sort of the motto i live my life by I guess - if you want more out of life, you have to put more effort in. I had researched a little local surf rental shop, hired a wetsuit and a board and went out for the afternoon. the waves were small and I can't say I was any good, but it was amazing to be surrounded by the locals and get a brief taste of japan surf culture. I paddled out, exchanged a brief smile and nod with some locals and silently tried to stay out of the way. I think it is funny how humans are so similiar but also so different. no matter where you are in the world, there are people that want to spend their time on a board in the ocean. but my observations of the surf in japan also hightlighted the subtle differences we do have. the surfers seemed to get onto waves effortlessly, without struggle or force. sometimes I didn't even think they would get onto the wave, but the next moment they were gliding along with sophisticated style. I believe the surf style largely reflects the japanese culture as a whole: poised and peacful? they achieve such a high standard, they are intellegient and hard working, but they don't show loud signs of brute exertion. I noted that I would like to take some surf and life lessons from the japanese - to move with less haste, noise and chaos, still achieving the same outcome but with quiet, humble mastery. I have since learnt that there are many other great surf sports around the country which I will have to explore one day :)