螃蟹到底怎麼拆🦀？大閘蟹教父來教你！上海大閘蟹龍頭「成隆行」

Описание: 大閘蟹當作水果吃是什麼道理？!
How to eat hairy crabs like a pro?!

有一年在家吃蟹，好奇把大閘蟹安排在一頓飯的哪部分，於是趕緊請教了成隆行柯老闆。他說在幾千年的中國飲食文化中，被文人墨客所青睞的不是人類剛需，而是滿足人的精神層面的需要。原來有一句話叫“一蟹上桌百味休”。一張菜單它實際上是一個樂章，吃蟹環節如果穿插其中，會打亂整個節奏。水果往往都是在餐後，味道如果達到一個高潮，後面的菜就冷落下去了。所以“明星”要在最後出現，否則會讓其他的菜色也遜色，原來如此。

在上海吃大閘蟹，沒有人不識成隆行。成隆行在全球大閘蟹產業鏈中，從蟹苗的培植到養殖，再到銷售出口、餐廳以及深加工，幾乎是一條完整的一條龍體系。他們甚至在東京開設了一家蟹王府，因為日本人非常喜歡吃蟹。在日本，大閘蟹的日語叫“上海蟹”，就像“麻婆豆腐”一樣，已經成為一個舶來語。第一次真正系統地理解大閘蟹，是在和成隆行柯老闆交談之後。稱他為大閘蟹教父也不為過。

江浙一帶吃蟹，是從蟹腿開始，漸進式地吃，需要讓最精華的部分保持溫度。中國人常說“一熱百鮮”，蟹一定要熱著吃。在餐廳里，服務生拆蟹的速度也有要求，一隻蟹通常不超過三分鐘，快的話兩分多鐘。

吃蟹大致分為“文吃”和“武吃”。武吃是直接掰開，直入主題，兩口吃到膏黃，迅速達到滿足；文吃則是一隻蟹，從腿吃到膏黃，過程更有趣味性和情緒價值。除了大閘蟹之外的蟹，很難做到這一點。其他蟹只是鮮甜，沒有油脂香。柯老闆還提到，蟹殼里那一層黑色的軟組織，其實是蟹風味的重要來源。很多做蟹宴的師傅覺得它不好看，會把它去掉，但他做的禿黃油里，一定會保留這一部分。

In Shanghai, no one who eats hairy crab is unfamiliar with Cheng Long Hang. It operates an almost fully integrated system—from breeding crab roe and aquaculture to sales, export, restaurants, and even deep processing. They have even opened a restaurant in Tokyo called Xiewangfu, as the Japanese are particularly fond of crab.

It was only after speaking at length with Mr. Ke that I truly gained a understanding of hairy crab. Crabs are eaten starting with the legs, progressing step by step so that the most prized parts can retain their warmth. Crab must be eaten hot. In restaurants, even the speed at which servers dismantle a crab is regulated—usually no more than three minutes per crab, sometimes just over two.

Most other crabs are simply sweet and fresh, lacking the rich aroma that comes from fat in hairy crabs. Mr. Ke also pointed out that the thin layer of dark, soft tissue inside the shell is in fact a crucial source of the crab’s flavor. Many chefs who prepare crab banquets consider it unattractive and remove it, but in his crab roe sauce, this part is always kept.

#crabs #Shanghai #shanghaieats #大閘蟹 #上海

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