Day 30 Amer Fort, Jaipur 12 February 2026

Описание: Amber Fort, Expanding Jaipur, and the Artisans of Rajasthan

Breakfast this morning was a comforting South Indian–meets–Western mix: a dosa with vegetable curry, a small plate of masala scrambled eggs, and an Americano from a Tata coffee machine. A simple but satisfying start to the day.

Gugan arrived promptly, and moments later my guide, Bikan Singh, joined us. We drove through the old Pink City, its terracotta façades glowing softly in the morning light, and continued outward toward Amer (or Amber), home to one of Rajasthan’s most magnificent hill forts.

As the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a sprawling metropolis of over 5 million people, and it continues to grow rapidly, spreading out as far as 25 km from the historic centre. I had noticed the sheer scale of construction yesterday as we approached the city, and from the ramparts of Amber Fort later, the expansion was even more evident.

From above, I could also see a man‑made lake I had glimpsed from the car earlier. On its island sits a garden where an evening sound‑and‑light show is performed - it must be spectacular to witness against the backdrop of the hills.

Amber Fort lies about 11 km from Jaipur, rising dramatically above Maota Lake. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Hill Forts of Rajasthan, and is one of the finest examples of Rajput architecture infused with Mughal elegance.

Construction began in 1592 under Raja Man Singh I, one of Emperor Akbar’s most trusted generals. Over the next 150 years, successive rulers expanded it until the Kachwaha dynasty shifted their capital to Jaipur in 1727.

Built from red sandstone and white marble, the fort is arranged across four levels, each with its own courtyard, a self‑contained world of palaces, temples, audience halls, and gardens.

Large tour groups must disembark and take jeeps up the steep, cobbled path. But since we were in a car, Gugan drove us bumper‑to‑bumper up the winding incline, navigating the tight turns with impressive skill.

We entered through the first courtyard, known as the Jaleb Chowk or Elephant Courtyard. This is where elephants once carried royalty, and today, tourists, up to the fort. It’s a grand, bustling space that immediately sets the tone for the magnificence inside.

Amber Fort is a place where every corner reveals another marvel. Bikan guided me through the palaces, sharing stories of the rulers, their families, and the ingenious architecture.

Ganesh Pol: A stunning gateway painted with intricate frescoes, leading to the private royal quarters.

Diwan‑i‑Aam (Hall of Public Audience): Where the king addressed his subjects and heard petitions.

Diwan‑i‑Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Reserved for dignitaries and important guests.

Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace): Walls and ceilings inlaid with thousands of tiny mirrors, designed so that a single candle could illuminate the entire room. This was the winter palace.

Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure): Ingeniously cooled by a water cascade that created a natural air‑conditioning effect - a summer retreat long before electricity.

Sila Devi Temple: Near the entrance, known for its silver doors and its sacred importance to the royal family.

Zenana (Queens’ Quarters): A courtyard surrounded by rooms for the king’s 12 wives - three on each side. Each queen had her own suite, connected by discreet passages so the king could visit without the others knowing.

From the ramparts, the views over the hills and Maota Lake were breathtaking. The fort wall stretches 13 km, snaking across the hills like a miniature Great Wall of China.

Below lies the Kesar Kyari Garden, a star‑shaped Mughal garden built on an island in the lake. It dates back centuries and was once planted with saffron. The fort’s water‑management system - channelling water from the lake to feed fountains and cooling systems - is a marvel of early engineering.

Once again, there was so much to take in - carvings, mosaics, mirror work, marble reliefs - and I once again took far too many photographs to post them all here.

On our way back toward the city, we passed the enchanting Jal Mahal, the Water Palace, floating serenely in Man Sagar Lake, another man‑made lake. The palace is currently being converted into a hotel. Birds skimmed the surface of the water, diving for fish, adding a touch of life to the tranquil scene.

Our next stop was a block‑printing and carpet‑making cooperative. To my surprise, the man who runs it is a Christian named Vincent, with a home in Birmingham, UK!

Here, everything is made by hand using natural materials and vegetable dyes - fabrics, garments, accessories, and carpets. Watching the artisans at work was fascinating. The precision of the block printing, the rhythmic stamping of patterns, and the richness of the colours brought the craft to life. It was a privilege to see such traditional skills preserved and practised with pride.