Breakdown and Analysis of Evilution V11 in Bishop | Anatomy of the Climb

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Footage kindly provided by:
Vincent Mollicone
Instagram: @vollico
YouTube:    / @vincentmollicone3020  

BadWater Bouldering
Instagram: @badwaterbouldering
YouTube:    / badwaterbouldering  

BadWater Bouldering's awesome 20-minute video on Evilution Direct:    • DREAM CLIMB... Evilution Direct (v11, 55ft...  

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// TIMESTAMPS //
Preview (00:00)
Full Climbing Video (00:19)
Introduction and Background (02:15)
Climbing Analysis: (06:13)
Information about Coaching with Dan Beall (11:02)
Analysis Resumes (11:44)
Final Thoughts and Takeaways (22:36)
Outro (25:13)

// SHOW NOTES //

Intro

Welcome to a very special episode of the Anatomy Of the Climb featuring professional climber, Dan Beall! We get Dan’s take on an epic climb in the Buttermilks, Evilution V11


Climb Info

Climb: Evilution (V11)

Location: The Buttermilks, Bishop

Climbers: Vincent Mollicone (@vmollico) and BadWater Bouldering (@badwaterbouldering)


Movement


First Move:

The first move I want to talk about is this big yard out to a far away right hand.

Now the body position and the incline of this climb make this a really interesting move. The right hand is very abducted and he is getting a lot of latissimus dorsi activation. Now, because of the incline he also wants to keep himself closer to the wall, but he is so extended that he is at a mechanical disadvantage for the right shoulder. Seemingly, the left foot and hand would appear to be what’s keeping him close to the wall. But, Dan, you have much more experience on this climb, can you talk about this first move and even into the set up for the next left hand?

It is interesting to see the different holds as well. The kind of side pull undercling versus the more traditional hold. One of them makes the next left hand move look far easier

As he unwinds he gets into a more traditional wide pull position and seemingly moves to the left hand without any issues. Is that because of the good right foot? The right hand? Etc.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/i...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Abduction: Connexions, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons

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Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
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Emile Modesitt (@emile166)

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