RICK OWENS FW25 WOMENS CONCORDIANS

Описание: FW25 CONCORDIANS WOMEN’S
THURSDAY 06 MARCH 2025
PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS

FOR OUR MEN’S COLLECTION, SHOWN 6 WEEKS AGO, I WROTE THE FOLLOWING:
“NAMING THIS COLLECTION CONCORDIANS, I WAS THINKING ABOUT MY 22 YEARS OF TRAVELING
TO OUR FACTORY IN THIS SMALL INDUSTRIAL ITALIAN TOWN, CONCORDIA. AND NOT JUST ALONE
BUT WITH MY TEAM, ALL TRAVELING FROM THEIR RESPECTIVE GLITTERING CITIES – TO LIVE HERE IN A KIND OF STUDIOUS ISOLATION. ALMOST BLEAKNESS. THIS CLOISTERED LIFE SEEMS TO BE WHAT IT TAKES TO BE ABLE TO FOCUS ON REACHING FOR SOMETHING WEIRD AND WONDERFUL…AFTER 20 YEARS OF TRAVELING HERE, I HAVE UPGRADED MY CARRY ON WITH A NEW RIMOWA COLLABORATION CUSTOMIZED WITH A BRONZED EXTERIOR AND FULLY-LINED IN BLACK LEATHER. I ASKED RIMOWA TO GIVE ME THE BRONZE OF A RICHARD SERRA WALL AND, BLESS THEIR HEARTS, THEY DID.” WELL, THE RIMOWAS ARE SOLD OUT NOW, BUT WE ARE STILL OFFERING THE LEATHER BEAUTY CASES MADE TO MATCH THE LEATHER INTERIORS OF THE CARRY-ONS. THE RIMOWA COLLAB INSPIRED ME TO OFFER LEATHER FLIGHT JACKETS, ALSO LINED IN LEATHER – SOMETHING THAT HAD SURPRISINGLY NEVER OCCURRED TO ME BEFORE.
I’VE CONTINUED MY COLLABORATION FROM LAST FALL WITH LEO PROTHMANN, A LONDON DESIGNER WHO PROPOSED LEATHER CHAPS, WHICH WE HAVE ALSO LINED IN LEATHER.
LEATHER LININGS HAVE A DELICIOUSLY FETISHISTIC QUALITY, BUT ALSO A DISCREET OPULENCE THAT HAS ALWAYS APPEALED TO ME IN THE WORK OF 1930S INTERIOR DESIGNER JEAN-MICHEL FRANK, WHO I FIND A NEVER-ENDING WELL OF AESTHETIC FUEL. HEAVYWEIGHT GROPPONE COW LEATHER IS LASER CUT AND WOVEN TOGETHER BY HAND TO CREATE CHAIN-LINKED SKIRTS AND DRESSES IN A COLLABORATION WITH PARISIAN DESIGNER VICTOR CLAVELLY, WHO SPECIALIZES IN EXAGGERATING THE BODY IN A WAY I’M ALWAYS ON THE LOOKOUT FOR.
I HAVE ALSO COLLABED WITH PARISIAN RUBBER MISTRESS MATISSE DIMAGGIO AGAIN, WHO PROVIDED THE TOPS AND HOODIES WITH ALL-OVER FRILLING IN NATURAL RUBBER.
TANJA VIDIC ALSO PROVIDES HER INTRICATELY CONSTRUCTED KNITS THAT MAKE ME THINK OF THE WEIRD NATURALISM OF THE WIENER WERKSTÄTTE.
OUR STRICT-SHOULDERED JACKETS ARE NOW WORN UNDER WRAPPED AND TIED SLEEVELESS COATS IN EITHER SHEARLING OR COARSE AND RIGID WOOL DRILL WOVEN FROM RWS CERTIFIED WOOL IN THE GIFU PREFECTURE OF JAPAN.
DRACUCOLLARED JACKETS AND COATS ARE MADE IN HEAVYWEIGHT VEG TANNED CALF LEATHER, WHICH IS DRUMMED WITH WAX AND WASHED. ONLY VEGETAL AND NATURAL TANNINS WERE USED IN THE PROCESS OF TANNING AND PRESERVING THE LEATHER.
SCULPTED COATS ARE MADE IN HEAVY FELTS IN NATURAL MILK WHITE OR DARK BROWN MADE FROM BRITISH WOOL BOARD-LICENSED, NON-MULESED BRITISH WOOL SOURCED EXCLUSIVELY FROM FARMS IN THE UK. THE NATURAL COLORED WOOL IS CLEANED THROUGH A GENTLE AND ACID FREE PROCESS THAT RETAINS 95% OF THE WATER IN A CLOSED-LOOP SYSTEM. THIS PROCESS ALLOWS FOR FLECKS AND FIELD MATERIAL TO REMAIN IN THE NATURAL FIBER.
JACKETS AND COATS ARE ALSO CUT IN A BRITISH MÉLANGE WOOL FELT BLENDED WITH KEMP, ALSO KNOWN AS DEAD HAIR. KEMP FIBERS ARE NATURAL TO SOME SHEEP BREEDS AND DO NOT TAKE DYE, WHICH CREATES THE NATURAL MÉLANGE COLORATION ONCE DYED.
LONG SKIRTS WITH HIGH CENTER FRONT AND CENTER BACK SLITS ARE MADE IN WOOL DRILL,LACQUERED DENIM, OR PIRARUCU – A DINOSAUR-LOOKING SKIN I RETURN TO AGAIN AND AGAIN FOR ITS DRAMA AND ETHICAL SOURCING.
CROPPED JACKETS AND BAGS ARE CUT FROM BLEACHED, LARGE SCALED ALLIGATOR SKINS RESPONSIBLY SOURCED IN THE U.S.A.
WE CONTINUE OUR BONOTTO COLLABORATION WITH CAPES AND COATS ZIPPED AND HARNESSED IN HOMAGE TO BLIXA BARGELD, THE FRONTMAN OF EINSTÜRZENDE NEUBAUTEN. HEAVYWEIGHT WOOL MELTON IS MADE USING RWS CERTIFIED VIRGIN WOOL, WHICH ENSURES A HIGH STANDARD IN ANIMAL WELFARE, ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY, AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY. EACH BALE OF WOOL IS TRACEABLE BACK TO ITS SOURCE.
DENIM COLLAGE DRESSES AND SKIRTS ARE EXECUTED IN BLACK OR BRONZE MEGACRUST – LAYERS OF BRONZE FOIL AND WAX ARE PRESSED ONTO DENIM AND WASHED TO CREATE A CRUSTY SURFACE TEXTURE. ALL OUR DENIM IS TREATED IN AN ITALIAN WASH-HOUSE BASED IN THE VENETO AREA OF ITALY THAT PRODUCES IN SMALLER TREATMENT BATHS TO REDUCE WATER WASTE AND UTILIZES A WATER PURIFYING PROCESS THAT ENABLES THEM TO RECYCLE A PORTION OF THE WATER USED. ALL OF OUR DENIM WASHES ARE ZDHC CERTIFIED.
OTHER SHREDDED AND COLLAGED SKIRTS ARE MADE IN 14OZ ORGANIC JAPANESE INDIGO SLUB DENIM WOVEN IN THE FUKUYAMA PREFECTURE BY A MILL FOUNDED IN 1893. THESE ARE STONEWASHED WITH MINERAL DYES TO CREATE OUR SIGNATURE HUSTLER WASH.
THE SOUNDTRACK IS IGGY POP’S ‘MASS PRODUCTION’, THE SONG I USED FOR MY FIRST NY RUNWAY SHOW 23 YEARS AGO, WHICH WE WON’T LEGALLY BE ABLE TO USE ON YOUTUBE, BUT IT’S A SONG THAT YEARNS FOR THE WEIRD AND WONDERFUL, AS MUCH TO ME NOW AS IT DID BACK THEN.

CASTING ANGUS MUNRO (CLM)
STYLING TYRONE DYLAN SUSMAN
HAIR DUFFY (STREETERS)
MAKEUP MAC COSMETICS AND DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
PRODUCTION LA MODE EN IMAGES
MUSIC ‘MASS PRODUCTION’ BY IGGY POP MIXED BY JEFF JUDD