Uzbekistan-Traditional Ikat Making in Uzbekistan

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Script
Marghilan Crafts Development Centre was established on 7 September 2007 by the initiative of Islam Karimov, First President of the Republic of Uzbekistan on occasion of 2000th anniversary of foundation of Marghilan city. The representatives of following famous master-craftsmen generation work at this Centre: Mr. Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov and Mr. Abdulrakhim Mirzaakhmedov (9th generation craftsmen), Mr. Makhmudjon Tursunov (3rd generation craftsman) and Mr. Sherzodjon Ghoziyev (2nd generation craftsman). This centre mainly is specialized on reviving of traditional ikat weaving and natural dyeing technologies as well as reviving of samples of traditional ikat fabrics preserving at the museums of foreign countries. Guest visited this centre could see the whole process of traditional ikat weaving and dyeing. The purpose of the centre is safeguarding and transmission of traditional ikat weaving and dyeing technology that passing from generation to generation since ancient times.
Here is pilla (mulberry) producing workshop i.e. mulberries separates to the sorts and silk fibers production process starts.
After mulberries separated into sorts we put them in the 40 C water. Then one fiber spins from nine mulberries are made and passed to devchaq. After fibers winded to this devchaq then goes to hank making loom.
Once the stage with spinning wheel is completed, the silk wrapped to the pipe is put into the water and prepared spool. After that ready spool is passed to the next silk washing process.
The process of making mixture will start with taking of silk from hunk. After that we will put powder of desert plants equisetum and shoro into the pot filled with 100 liter water in order to prepare mixture to clean glue from the silk. Silk should be boiled during an hour in 80 C in the mixture.
Then this silk should be taken from the mixture and dried in the air.
Once it is dried, it is passed to the next step called “davra” (cycle).
Dried silk is wrapped to the spool and put to the circle. Then 40 fibers are gathered and in the size of “luvud” silk is cut from 200 to 400 meters. About 4000 fiber should be prepared. After this stage “qatlash”(layering) process starts.
According to the selected pattern tanda with the length of 200 to 400 meters are layered by splitting the silk (from 1.80 to 2.20 meter).
After this pattern designing process starts. Later on silk will be prepared for dyeing process after selected pattern is fixed by simple threads. Then dyeing process starts with yellow color.
Packed onion shellsare put in to the kettle and boil during 2 hours in 60 C hot water in order to get yellow color. After this bag with onion shells should be removed from pot and then silk tanda putted to the colored water for 1 hour to dye the silk. Then the silk must be rinsed in cold water.
The parts that was coloured into yellow color should be tied up and dyed in red color. In order to get red color we take roots of madder and pound it. After that we put the ingredients to the kittle with water. Then we put tanda (taut basement of the fabric) to the kittle and soak it about 1 or 1 hour and 30 minutes in 60 C water. After this dyeing process we rinse the silk again. Indigo is used for getting blue, dark blue and black colors. Then silk tanda will be dried. After this we move to the “ochdi-qoshdi” (open-add) process. During this process we open 200 meter tanda and stretch to tana (pipe). After the stretching process we go to gulabardor process.
Next stage is “gulabardorlik”. In gulabardorlik tanda is taken and put to the ground and measured. Then each 4000 yarns should be tied with rings. After obtaining necessary width, the unfinished work is pulled to the equipment and rings are tied to each other. This ring tying process calls gulabardorlik. In this process 4000 yarns are counted. Next, master tie to 2, 4 or 8 treadle according which master will pass through the basis of the silk. The weaving process begins once the weaver finished tying the threads to the necessary triggers.
We also have instrument “moki” (shuttle). Threads are put into it. If the shuttle and “tanda” are silk, then the fabric is called silk. But if
tanda is silk and shuttle is thread then it is called “adras”. Here, it is adras fabric.
The process after weaving calls kudungchilik (polishing). Kudunchilik is the process of fabrics designing. For this process fabric should be cut in necessary length and rinsed in the flowing water to wash the dust.
Afterwards, egg yolk is separated from the white and the egg white is whisked in order to apply it inside the fabric.
Then the folded fabric is put on the stone. After that it should be beaten with hammer.