How to Survive a 50ft Wave on The Head with Shane Dorian: Smith Brothers Podcast

Описание: Get insider tips and insights from legendary big wave surfer Shane Dorian in this must-see episode of the Smith Brothers Podcast! Shane shares his journey from childhood to professional surfing, including the challenges and triumphs of big wave surfing. Learn about the next generation of surfers and hear about Shane's incredible near death experiences. Don't miss out on this captivating conversation, perfect for surf enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies alike!




▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
0:00 - 0:37 Introduction
0:37 - 1:35 Jackson Dorian is living good
1:35 - 4:07 thoughts on the next generation
4:07 - 8:44 Shane's story of coming to the north shore solo at age 15
kids nowadays having it too easy - adversity births motivation
12:20 -13:26 pushing yourself to grow
13:26 - 18:00 getting into big wave surfing / what made you think about paddling into jaws?
18:00 - 23:32 Mindset on Surfing Jaws
23:32 - 25:35 Breathwork before wipeouts
25:35 - 30:00 Wiping out
30:00 - 33:38 do you still have the big wave mentality?
33:38 - 36:30 have you almost died surfing?
36:30 - 42:13 Pioneering big wave pull vests + water safety
42:13 - 45:10 How is big wave surfing similar to hunting? / Patience is key
45:10 - 46:50 Diet/Elk Energy
46:50 - 49:20 Elk mating is like Pipeline
49:20 - 52:28 Koa’s dream wave
52:28 58:38 Concussions / fear cannot be replicated / healing from brain trauma
58:38 - 59:11 - Sunrise Shack Shot break
59:11 - 1:08:44 Memories w/ Andy Irons
1:08:44 -1:12:12 Does Ethan Ewing surf like andy?
1:12:12 - 1:13:02 Do you coach Jackson’s surfing?
1:13:02 - 1:16: 07 Do wave pools help his surfing progress?
1:16:07 - 1:20:27 Competitive Surfing in wave pools?
1:20:27 - 1:25:53 Youtube Dad Life


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