Honda CBR900RR Fireblade Valve Clearance Check & Adjustment Guide | How To Change Valve Shims | 009

Описание: Honda CBR900RR Fireblade Valve Clearance Check & Adjustment Guide | How To Change Valve Shims | 009

In this video, I check and adjust the valve clearances on my Honda CBR900RR Fireblade motorcycl project bike. This is a bike that I am preparing to ride during the summer, rather than do a full restoration, so I’m giving it a thorough service and maintenance over the winter months.

Checking and setting the valve clearances on this type of engine can be quite daunting for a home mechanic. Especially when you are told you need to take the cams out to adjust the clearances. It can be time-consuming and you will likely need to buy some additional tools to do the job, but with a methodical approach to this valve clearance job most home mechanics can do it. I hope this video serves as a useful guide for anyone who is looking to do the CBR900RR valve clearance job on their own Fireblade.

I have listed the main things you need here:
Torque Wrench 5-25NM: https://ebay.us/z2oe9X
7.48mm Valve shim set, 141 piece, 3 of each size: https://ebay.us/Q6a3MD
Metric Imperial Feeler Gauge: https://ebay.us/qRyu99

I have done a more thorough and complete write up on our www.spannerrash.com blog. This is something you may want to read if you are going ahead to do the job yourself.

The main problem that I came across while doing the Fireblade valve clearances was that the pulse rotor on the end of the crankshaft did not have the factory timing marks. Research told me that this is not unheard off, nobody is sure why some do not have them. All I had to do was find TDC and make my own mark on the rotor. Basically, I put two centre punched dots at 6 o’clock, which is where one of the factory marks should have been, after carefully setting the engine at TDC with a rod down a spark plug hole.

I explain what I think is an easier way to work out which shims to use for any that need to be replaced. The kits that you buy come in .05mm increments, which is basically 2 thou difference for each one. These work fine to get the clearances within spec, if you did want to be a little more accurate, you would need to order individual shims. Unless you are building a race engine this isn’t really necessary.

Once I had completed the job I rechecked the clearances and was very pleased to find that they were what I had predicted and all within spec.

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For more detail about how to complete this job, visit our blog to read my guide article: https://www.spannerrash.com/motorcycl...

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