Turkmenistan (Nokhur-Nohur Village 2) Part 16

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Nohur
High in the Kopet Dag Mountains, the village of Nohur and the neighbouring settlements occupying the terraced sides of the upland valleys are quite unlike other parts of Turkmenistan. Wedged into the mountains just a few kilometres from Iran, this village offers a unique opportunity to hike in the hills and soak up some rural life. Nokhur was once a byword among Soviet Turkmen for everything rural and backwards. Thanks to their isolation, Nokhuris have retained unique traditions and a particular dialect of Turkmen. They claim ancestry from Alexander the Great’s army and prefer to marry among themselves rather than introduce new genes to the tribe.
The local Nohurli tribe retains conservative traditions protected by the remoteness of its settlements, and has a reputation for religious piety, hard work, and in-breeding. Claiming descent from the army of Alexander the Great, Nohurlis will show you a stone in the village said to bear a footprint of Alexander's horse. The porches of Nohur houses are indeed supported by wooden columns which recall the Ionic style. But the inspiration here perhaps draws less from Hellenism than from the horns of the local sheep. Combining fascinating villages, beautiful scenery, and excellent opportunities for guided trekking, Nohur repays a visit of several days.
Nohur is reached by a road heading south into the mountains from the village of Archman. A 4x4 is required, though the route can become all but impassable after heavy rains. Since 2004, visits to the Nohur area have required a special border zone permit, to be applied for when you request your letter of invitation for Turkmenistan. The border checkpoint lies 12km south of Archman. Nohur itself is another 10km further on, and up, at an altitude of around 1,000m.
There is one tourist complex in this area. The Chandybil Tourist Centre lies at 1,450m, midway between Nohur and the next village of Garawul, though off of the main track between the two villages. It offers 12 rooms, sleeping either two or four people in small cottages, with en-suite shower rooms and central heating. There are also five yurts, named after each of the regions of Turkmenistan. There are good opportunities for camping, and travel agencies may also be able to arrange a homestay in one of the villages in the area.