RESTORE YOUR HEADLIGHTS with sand paper. Remove the haze

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we're going to take and we're going to restore this lens we're gonna go with 1000 wet paper 1500 dry paper and then finish it off with 3,000 wet paper to be able to get some of the residue off that is on here and then from there we're gonna go and buff it off with the AAT 501 rubbing compound and then finish it with the 502 Finishing Polish we want to make a line here so we get to that definite definitive difference between the two, we're going to use the detail spray it's a non-silicon detail spray and specifically designed for the body shops. It really going to help lubricate it is no silicone or there's no wax or anything in between it's going to help create just a nice lubrication here to help remove all this oxidation that's on the exterior surface that we chose to go with the wet paper because sometimes when you're trying to get that first sanding done with this you get a lot of buildup you get all the old oxidation to get all the old lens parts. Who knows? They have maybe had wax or anything. You'll go through a lot more dry paper than you will with the wet paper. Wipe it down, see the work. We got a little bit more work to do now this is an extreme example that we've chosen to deal with here. This might take a little bit of time but he can see already that we're getting through there that oxidation is already coming up and one thing about this you have to understand is the manufacturers put a protective coating on this so once you get to this point you need actually protected with the good wax or a good sealant. There are some products out there that you can actually spray on top and put that coating back on there but you'll go and you'll restore this and then maybe a couple months later if you haven't properly covered it; It will start to turn back again and that doesn't mean that you didn't do a good job, that just means that there's no more protection on here because what we've done is we're stripping that all away actually, that was already removed before you even got to this job the lenses were already that bad. So to make sure this doesn't happen is you always want to make sure you have a wax or protective coating on the top of your car even if it's brand-new let's remember that waxes are protected layer, a sacrificial layer to the elements between your car and your vehicle surface and the elements outside again we also recommend that you use the dual action polisher over high-speed because this is plastic. a high-speed could cause it to melt unless you run it very slow or you have a lot of practice with a high-speed take a little bit of time a little bit of a mess not too much sometimes you got to get your hands dirty when you get into the details of the detail! . If you need to and you're unsure start with the Polish then go to your compound from your compound going firm then maybe the wool. Make sure when you're doing your testing, you do it the right way that we're going to 1500 dry now we're going to take the 3D green 1,500 dry paper going to sand off that thousand just to refine it go ahead Now I like to use a dry paper on this step because we use wet because again we don't know what's on here it felt like there was a film. We really need to get down here and there's 1500 even though the dry just seems to take off a little bit more be a little bit faster. You can kind of wipe down, you have to worry so much about the mess AND dry papers just seems to stay cleaner it's easier to use a lot of times. We'll just go back with this and see how it starts to brighten it up. It looks like we've got a lot of work done here already. Alright a little spritz here now we're down to our last sanding step, We don't have to go too crazy. We are going to use the 3,000 wet. Just go over it nice and slow and even. Clean off the haze layer. Make sure to tape and mask off the work area so that you don't leave grooves in the paint.