The Most Forgiving Arrow Length for Bowhunting and Archery!

Описание: Arrow length seems like one of those things that people just give a standard number and go with it. But is there actually an optimal arrow length for your bow set up? There has to be, right? So in today's video I am going to walk you through how to determine the best arrow length for your archery setup.

There are two points on a shaft that have minimal flex. Those are your arrow nodes. There's one in the back and there's one in the front. You're going to have a little bit more flex up in the in front of the node, a little bit of flex behind the node in the middle between the nodes, all your flex action is going to be happening. So you want the node of the arrow, wherever that is, to sit on your rest when you're at full draw.

As the arrow, as the power stroke in the bow is putting forth our work on the arrow, the arrow is flexing so if you have the bow held and your solid and the arrow releases and the arrow starts to flex, the point at which the arrow is the straightest and as the least amount of flex is going to deviate the least amount when the bow is released.

So if you have that rest on a portion of this arrow that the arrow is going to flex a lot, if your grip is torqued or your anchor points off, the arrow is released a different way, or the string is twisted a little bit and the arrow reacts differently to the power stroke. That flex is going to throw your shot off a lot more than if it was in the spot where it's not going to flex. It's just going to be a lot more forgiving for you down range.

So how do you find the node of your arrow? There's two really simple ways. The first way is you just kind of grab the arrow like this with your fingers and you grab it and kind of just beat it off your leg.

You'll grab it a little bit loose, hit it on your leg. And if it doesn't vibrate, you're on the node. If it vibrates, you're off the node. You'll do this until you find the spot on the arrow that results in the least amount of vibration (flex) for that arrow and you'll just mark that spot on the arrow. Now when you draw back, the idea is that you want that point to be sitting on your rest when you're at full draw.

let's discuss how to find your node in a different manner. So this way is pretty simple. You grab the arrow on the north and you need a hard surface, a wooden table or something works pretty well. You just grab them lightly on the back of the arrow, start further up on the arrow, and then work your way down You can really tell the difference. And the idea is that you want to bounce the arrow on the hard surface and then the position where the arrow is dead, you're on the node.

When it comes to choosing a starting point. I like to start at my draw length and my draw length is 27 and a half inches. I have this arrow cut carbon to carbon 27 and a half inches so that's going to be my starting point.

Real quick, I just have a couple quick notes to make about changing or manipulating your arrow node and a really quick point to make is that your Arrow node may change its position when you switch from a field tip to a broadhead. So if the broadhead is a lot longer than your field point, the center gravity is going to change and your node can change its position based on the length of your broadhead.

Number two, you can manipulate the node of your arrow a little bit by either adding or subtracting point weight. If you go from 100 to 125 grains or from 75 grains, the change might be minimal. But if you're adding 50, 75, 100 grains and subtracting that much, it might be enough to not have to cut your arrow to a different length to get that node centered on your rest.

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